Quality South African Pinot

South Africa holds a unique place in the modern world of wine – it does not quite fit into the well-worn Old World/New World dichotomy.

It is undoubtedly true that the South African wine landscape as we observe it now is very new. Most of the wineries that play centre stage in the wine scene have all grown up since the end of apartheid. They are modern, forward looking wine growers.

Moreover, even though there is a long history of winemaking in South Africa, vineyards have generally been managed for high yields. Once vineyards become older and less productive, the historical mentality was to rip them up and replace them.

Consequently, whilst some older vineyards exist, the majority are planted with younger vines. Vineyards planted in the mid-eighties are considered old vines.

However, whilst being a young industry with younger vines, stylistically the wines do not fit the expected ‘New World’-model.

A South African Chenin Blanc is not as overtly fruity and buxom as a typical Australian or Californian Chardonnay. Whilst South African Syrahs’ have plenty of fruit, they have more restraint, peppery savouriness and less alcohol than a Californian example or an Australian Shiraz.

To generalise, South African wines are more restrained, savoury and expressive of Turangawaewae, whilst being less fruit-driven, overt and alcoholic than the type New World wine. As the highly-regarded wine critic Neal Martin puts it, “South African wines have soul.”

So, what about this Crystallum Pinot Noir Mabalel 2023? Does this have soul? Let us get popping and find out!

Pinot Noir Mabalel 2023, Crystallum

Pinot Noir Mabalel is one of Crystallum’s premium Pinot Noirs grown in a vineyard at an altitude of 700m. The resultant cooler climate is one reason the wine is only 13%. A great alcohol level for Pinot.

As this Pinot Noir Mabalel is the newest release, 2023, it is quite fruity. There are ripe cherries and raspberries present on the nose. These fruits are certainly very present and perfectly ripe, but not over-ripe or explosively opulent.

There is the merest hint of a seasoning with oak, only 20% of the barrels it is aged in post-fermentation are new. There is a a little earthiness too, which seems quite attractive. These add more complexity to the delicious, just-ripe fruit.

It does not smell hot or jammy, the alcohol-level – indeed all components – sit in idoneous balance with each other.

There is one characteristic on the nose that I have left until last, because I think it speaks strongly of the nature of the wine. There is a slightly spiky, savoury, bramble-y, raspberry leaf component here that adds the suggestion of herbal greenness to the fruit on the nose.

Now, that will have led some of you way ahead of me with my continuing analysis: those spiky, leafy, bramble characteristics are due to it being stemmy.

Oh no they are not! I am sorry to say you have been tearing off down the wrong track, this wine is not the slightest bit stemmy. All the fruit that was used to make this wine was completely de-stemmed and there are no stems in the fermentation vats.

So what is this bramble, green, leafy set of aromas. My long-time reader will know that I encountered a similar palette of aromas on the Crystallum Whole Bunch Pinot Noir 2019* I reviewed three years ago.

Back then, I ascribed the fruit profile with these spiky, green-bramble aromas to the wine being a South African Pinot Noir, and I think that is very much what Crystallum Pinot Noir Mabalel is displaying. This quality Pinot is speaking of its origins as clearly as a good Burgundy might. This expression of origin, Terroir, is highly engaging and deeply lovely, so I’m going to chew on a big mouthful!

Hmm… ‘chew’ might be taking it a bit far, but this wine certainly has some tannin to it. That is only to be expected from a serious wine of such youth. The tannins are largely very svelte and silky scrumptious Pinot tannins!

There is more to the structure than just these generic fruit tannins on show in the Crystallum Pinot Noir Mabalel. That brambly, raspberry leaf greenish aspect is here too and it adds a suggestion of spikiness to the tannins. This is Saffer Pinot!

I would not worry about the spikiness of he tannins sounding off-putting, they charge the palate with excitement and vivacity, it crackles with energy. Moreover, this is quite young for what is a serious Pinot. It may be only sealed with a DIAM 10 cork, but I think it will last a bit longer than that and these tannins will soften and meld with the silken Pinot fruit tannins as it ages.

There is more going on on this Crystallum Pinot Noir Mabalel palate. There is plenty of lasciviously ripe fruit, not overripe but tempting you to enjoy pleasures of their firm but yielding flesh. Phwwoooaaarrrr! Fancy a bit of Saffer Pinot, me!

Ah, that tannin/fruit structure is so pert and lively I just want to sink into my glass, but I’ll finish the note first. Crystallum Pinot Noir Mabalel has a pleasing depth of flavour, with hints of new oak spice and earth coming through as you swirl it around your palate. I think there is a little grind of pepper to it as well, a hint from one of the South African palette of flavours I find in other Saffer wines.

Let me summarise. Crystallum Pinot Noir Mabalel is first and foremost a South African Pinot Noir. I emphasise ‘South African’ because it contains flavours, aromas and textures that I have learned are specific to the palette of South African Pinot characteristics.

Next, it is a young wine. It is very fruit forward and buzzing with life and energy. It is quite the delight to drink now, it will tickle you pink, but I suppose it might be at its most restrained best from 6-8 years old. It should easily last 10 years.

Finally, Crystallum Pinot Noir Mabalel is a properly good wine. It speaks of its varietal, its Turangawaewae, and its winemaking. Every characteristic is in harmony, creating a synergistically balanced and smartly presented wine of sound complexity that will certainly age well in the medium-term. How can you turn down a quality Pinot that doesn’t cost hundreds of pounds?

It has soul, oh yeah!

*Alas, 2019 was the last vintage of this cracking wine made. I only have one bottle left!

Note: This review was made possible by a sample bottle from one of the owners of Crystallum, Peter Allan Finlayson, via the Cystallum UK agents Liberty Wines (contact them for purchasing) or use Wine-Searcher. Neither Mr Finlayson nor Liberty Wines saw or commented on this review prior to publication and, as ever, Elitistreview is not for sale.