No opiates for me this evening because it is fine wine time! Ow…
I say ‘fine wine time’, but when my Apple Watch roused me from my afternoon torpor with an instruction to ‘Decant the Shambley’, I must admit to not knowing what it was time for.
Then realisation that Siri lacks a basic knowledge of wine terms charmed me with very vague amusement once again, and off I shambled to the fridge corkscrew in hand.
I have written about this vineyard possessing both Grand Cru and Premier Cru characteristics on at least several occasions. You can read me getting distinctly worked up about it in these posts.
To the Shambley!
Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent 2019, Domaine William Fevre
Not as open or as expressive as I would have hoped: partly because I only double decanted it 35 minutes before we drank it but mostly because this is a big vintage, and it clearly has much more development to undergo.
Unwaxed lemons and stone on the nose. It has that Grand Cru powerful nuttiness. It has a lot of power despite being only 13% booze. Extremely attractive, though.
It is certainly very complex, with great density and detailed aromas of crushed rock. The nose is showing more of the Grand Cru side of this vineyard, not too much Premier Cru lightness on show. However there is obviously balance and harmony to this wine.
Its restrained oak contact has certainly given it extra dimension. This shows as a strong umami character that infuses the palate with a joyful deliciousness that makes one just want to drink up.
However, despite its size and obvious ripeness, it is fiercely acidic – to a degree that might pain those of us on Proton-pump inhibitors. Into every life a little pain must come, pour me more!
Undoubtedly very fruity, almost rich with its lemon juice action. It is the power that is arresting, though, every mouthful leaves you pausing for a moment after you swallow to think, “Wow!”. That is the ripeness of the vintage and the proximity of the vineyard to Grand Cru showing.
I would like a little bit more of the Grand Cru/Premier Cru dichotomy this vineyard can show, but this wine is very young. Maybe that will come in time. Maybe it will go further down the Grand Cru path, such is the incredible density here. We will have to see.
If you have some of this keep it for at least 2-3 years and then decant it from the fridge into something with a high surface area to volume ratio, it needs air. A lot of air.
A very impressive wine, but not my favourite example of this vineyard I have had. Perhaps that will come in time.
Bottled with a Diam, thank you.
Thank you Linda and Douglas for this fine bottle.
Buy from The Wine Society.
