Wines like the two I report on below make you seriously consider that red Burgundy could be a far more wonderful experience than even German Riesling. These two may be a shade less cerebral than top German Riesling, but cripes they deliver a staggering amount of raw, visceral pleasure!
For those who don’t know Joblot’s Givry Premier Cru Servoisine is the stream of bat’s piss as far as the other wines of the village go: it shines out like a shaft of gold, when all about is darkness. It has been a few years since I last had it and I must admit to being surprised by what an absolute stunner it is. The three of us drinking it could hardly believe such quality from what is usually such a dreary village.
There is no such vineyard as the one attributed to the second Burgundy of the day; it is the name put on grapes declassified from the spiffing Grand Cru Clos des Lambrays. I remember my last taste of Clos des Lambrays 2007 a couple of years ago. I found it totally delicious, but I suspected not for the long term. Based on this Premier Cru Les Loups 2007 you want to get drinking as it will be one of the most god-damned charming and utterly lovely wines you will ever encounter. Well made 2007s are displaying so pleasurably now and, whilst it may be made of second tier grapes, it shows the winemaker, Thiery Brouin, at the height of his powers.
Onward to the notes!
Givry Premier Cru La Servoisine 2012, Domaine Joblot
Good lord! What a nose! It is almost impossibly fruity. But do not get me wrong, this is no cheap tart slathered in faked perfume; it is a fabulously beautiful mistress worthy of falsehoods of ever increasing duplicity to spend time with, rather than be with your family.
The wonderful, wonderful fruit has a Vosne-Romanee-like quality to it; it is complex, stylish and exotic. Not over the top in an obvious manner, but charged with sophisticated allure that you just have to love! Love!! LOVE!!!
No excessive alcohol here and the new wood treatment has been extremely well controlled. The tannins are ripe and reasonably structured but they, together with the intricate earth hints, just make you more enamoured and becharmed with this wine.
Totally beauteous and elegant, but I think it has what it needs where it needs it to age for a reasonably long time – and you do not often hear that said about a Givry wine!
Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Les Loups 2007, Domaine des Lambrays
If the Givry was a seductive temptress, this totally gorgeous beauty rips off your clothes at the first sniff and covers your entire body with sensual, enthusiastic kisses.
The fruit is Morey at its most seductive, and Morey can be pretty god-damned seductive. It has a lot in common with the grander Clos des Lambrays which is made from first quality grapes, the rejects going into this wine. Bugger me, the selection criteria must be pretty damned strict, as this is just a pair of massive mams to stick your face into and jiggle about!
The palate is silken and soft, some ripe tannins but it is mainly themed on that freaking libidinous fruit. The acid might be a hint on the low side, but it is not so low that the wine is soupy or unbalanced. Indeed, with the Morey slightly floral fruit and earth hints, with adequate structure and a finish as long as the one it takes to finish a marathon, there are enough cerebral elements to keep you mind as well as your rude bits happy.
Drink with salacious enchantment as soon as you can get your hands on a bottle!
You could, but I would not recommend it, drink two bottles of Madeira after these.
I am a person more used to attending dinner parties where the wine on offer is usually Jacobs Creek or Kumala Shiraz. I was most delighted to be invited to partake in a lunch with such fine wines and even finer company.
I was educated in the delights of Riesling (and it’s pronunciation!), and invited to appreciate the earthy tones of the first Burgundy and the svelte and silky texture of the latter. Sadly I do not really posses the vocabulary to express the wine or experience of drinking them (one has to be careful what words one uses to describe wine in the company of such aficionados). Suffice to say, that they were both sublimely enjoyable.
A little Madeira afterwards can be enjoyed, however, I concur with the author that a too much may spoil the aftertaste of the Burgundy!
It was really lovely to see you, Matt. You are always welcome at Elitistreview Towers to nosh on roast meat and drink fabulous wine. I’m going to see if the gods smile upon me and let me get another bottle of that Givry. It may not have the raw sex value of the Morey (he says as someone who has never got any pleasure out of sex, but it does seem very popular), but fuck me (please, don’t) it was a serious fine wine experience!
Hi Davy, just got a case of the 2014 Joblot Servoisine delivered, will keep a bottle for you!
All the best
It would be lovely to see you again, Christian, Joblot or no Joblot. Given my limited experience with 2014s I strongly suggest you don’t hold back and pop them like crazy. They should be completely delicious!
Out of interest, how did you happen upon the Joblot? Is it a Domaine you’ve long known about?