I have a bit of a thing for Lafon’s red wines; they may be bigger and more generally voluptuous than type-Volnay but they are quite lovely: I’d go with ‘callipygian’ as a stylistic descriptor. This is probably the biggest Volnay of the vintage. For those who don’t know, Volnay-Santenots-du-Milieu may be classified as a Volnay Premier Cru, but the vineyard itself is over the Meursault-side of the border.
[image image_id=”2513″] Volnay-Santenots-du-Milieu 1997, Domaines des Comtes Lafon
There is one hell of a lot of fresh, ripe strawberry fruit to the nose; very Cote de Beaune-y. This smells really rather fresh for a 12 year old wine. It is bigger and rounder than a standard Volnay nose, and even by the fruit-driven standards of 1997 Burgundy this is berry-tastic. Very ripe and attractive but not short of complexity thanks to its stony, mineral edge. I’m really enjoying having a good smell of this, it is quite delicious; I bet I’ll love tasting it too. I do! Now that tastes really sexy. Ripe, round, sweet strawberry fruit is there in abundance and it fills your palate with a complex, svelte collection of flavours. Oh yeah. It may be rather ‘tits out for the boys’ but they are a beautiful, sculpted set of bouncers that you just want to cuddle up to and enjoy for as long as you are allowed access. This is providing as much pleasure as it ever will, so if you have some just dive on in and have a good feel of that round loveliness.
If these wines were not so firm they would be steatopygous.