The Editor likes squid

Paula’s Bistro – our favourite restaurant in Madeira

I feel pretty confident in describing Paula’s Bistro as The Editor’s and my favourite restaurant on Madeira as we ate there every single day. I feel less confident in describing the breadth of their cooking ability as we only ate a total of three different dishes on our five visits. Two of them were brilliant, the other as good as the main ingredient allowed.

We happened upon Paula’s Bistro quite by chance as we were walking through the old town near the cathedral on our first day. We were tempted by the place just around the corner that offered grilled limpets for €3 a portion, but when we saw “Grilled squid with chips” for €6.90 on Paula’s chalkboard we knew we had found our lunch destination.



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Wine

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Migoua 1999

I used to drink Domaine Tempier Bandol all the time. There was a shop in Oxford that sold La Migoua and La Tourtine 1990 for a tenner a bottle – how could I refuse? The aim was always to age it, but most bottles only stayed unpopped for a few days. I did manage to […]

Food

I bet the original Frink horse is worth more than Côte!

Côte de Winchester

Either moving to Winchester from London has eroded my critical faculties – even though it has reduced my blood pressure from 200/100 to 134/84, you would have to be both brave and foolhardy to suggest that – or it seems that outside the benighted, squalid, expensive dump that is Town, chain restaurants are actually a […]

Other

Bastard thief

Thieving bastard

The Editor and I had a bit of bad news on Monday morning. I got a call from the host of our cellar in France and he told us it had been broken into and a large proportion of our wine had been stolen. I was a shade distraught at this news. Our wine collections […]

Barbeito Madeira

Cabo Girao from viewpoint

You can reach for the stars if you climb the Cabo Girao at 589 metres above sea level. Alternatively you can taste vinous stars if you call Sergio[ref]Sergio, the Barbeito-favoured taxi driver, can be called on the number +351 919912420[/ref] to take you up a little higher to the Vinhos Barbeito winery. There you can […]

Wine glass recommendations

Riedel Sommelier Hermitage glass

A friend has just asked me to recommend some wine glasses. I realise I get asked this rather often so I thought I would dash off a quick post to help any people who are looking for glasses to buy. I shall start of with dream glasses and then move on to the stemware I […]

I am still alive, not so this wine

Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2005

I must start with an apology. I apologise for not writing any Elitistreview posts for far too long; unsurprisingly I have an excuse. Two months ago I had a fit and collapsed into a quivering heap on the floor right on top of my left foot and ankle. I totally buggered them. So for the last […]

Little Life, Davy as art

Davy reading Little Life

For those with an interest in the arts, and a degree of interest in me beyond my role as writer of lewd tasting notes, it might pique your curiosity to learn that I am the subject of a photographic art book by the talented, up-and-coming photographer Nataliya Ileva. I was incredibly flattered when she chose […]

Australia elegant

Coldstream PInot Noir 2012, Mac Forbes

The truth is, of course, that I hate Australian red wine. I loathe and despise the aesthetic ideal that dictates that red wine should have the consistency of pea soup, be sickly sweet with alcohol (and residual sugar), that it should be so dark it sucks in light from rooms away and with tannins as […]

Henri Jouan Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2012

Jouan Clos-Saint-Denis 2012

On Friday night we had a little dinner party with our friend Christian who had come all the way from Switzerland to see us (possibly). We drank many really delicious wines and one that was probably the best young red Burgundy that I have owned (and then drank). I love Clos-Saint-Denis. It is simply gorgeous. […]