I feel a bit guilty opening this wine. Lovely, small-scale Beaune Premier Crus that, with their abundant fruit and easy charm, seem like they will drink best as soon as you get the case from your wine merchant. This is simply not true – well, it is slightly true in that they are delicious young – the prettiest, most delicate Beaune Premier Crus (from good vintages and vineyards) will age (in my chum Tom’s word) “forever”. So I feel I really should be keeping this, but the only other wines I have are either undrinkable or too grand for a light afternoon on the sauce, so our palates will be caressed by Beaune.
All the de Montille Beaunes I have had have been sculpted entities of poise and balance – elegantly honed models of pure delight. This one may be from the hot 2009 vintage, but as Tom (again) and I seem to have noticed in recent times, the overt fruit explosion that a lot of 2009s had when they were released have evolved into much more sedate states. Good! I like my Burgundies so beautiful you need to look at them with a polished metal mirror to save glass ones from breaking and with so much restraint you need a key to let it loose in your mouth. Let us see how this shows itself.