Riesling Auslese Berncasteler Doctor 2001, Dr Thanisch (Erban-Thanisch)
I have to summon my very darkest powers in order to fight the vivacity of this wine that is trying to drive me from my normal Eeyore-ish mode of operation. I have rarely had wines that burst with this level of precision, focus and intensity. And yet, for all of those qualities it just slips down a treat. The nose bursts with ripe grapefruit aromas and an incredible degree of slatey minerality. It explodes with concentration of aromas. So giving and so thrilling, and yet so obviously young. The palate is a truly mind-bending roller coaster ride through a panoply of experiences. There is incredible fruit, wild minerality, stunning concentration, charming hints of botrytis and quite buttock-clenching amounts of style. The acidity hurts, but in a way that you want to feel again and again. It is vastly young, but this is a wine of such quality it goes beyond slightly lewd to rather dirty.