This is one of the most compelling bottles of Burgundy I’ve tried in recent periods of time. I was surprised by how good a wine from such a, let us be honest, lesser village (albeit the best vineyard and the best producer in that village, from a top vintage) could be. It charmed our lovely friends from New Zealand (hope the journey goes well tomorrow, Mike and Vanessa, we were really happy you had the time to see us tonight), who are unused to drinking such rarefied Burgundies. I was terribly pleased it hit their pleasure centres. And terribly pleased it tickled my fancy, too.
[image image_id=”2068″ align=”left”] Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Ile des Vergelesses 2005, Domaine Chandon de Briailles
Quite pale in colour, but of course we couldn’t give a tinker’s cuss about the depth of colour in red Burgundy. What a nose! Pure, fresh strawberry fruit that is just ravishing in its beauty-quotient. There is a super-refined minerality there as well which excites my intellectual faculties, but it is the gorgeous exquisiteness of this nose, its sculpted, pure refinement which does it for me. Yeah. And I do mean ‘Yeah’ in a deep and meaningful sense. There is more of the lovely strawberry fruit on the palate and it is bright and fresh; elegant but again beguiling in its loveliness. The tannins are present but they are silky and in total harmony with the precise fruit flavours and wonderful, enlivening acidity. It is a supremely focused palate which has a slightly firm character on the finish; these characters keep it tasting alive and vibrant. The finish is certainly long and quite the charmer even though it is firm. For the lover of elegance, harmony and sophistication this is giving one hell of a lot of pleasure now, but I’d suggest it is only going to keep on improving over the next five years or so. Its is a far more charming and pleasure-filled wine than even the flashest Cortons I’ve had from Chandon de Briailles, although it does make me think positive thoughts about the magnum of Corton-Bressandes 2005 I have from them. Maybe, when I feel it’ll be mature, I’ll finally get to try a red Corton which is actually lovely. I await popping that mag with interest, but until then I’d be a fool not to purchase more of this.