Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum 2016 from San Polino

The name of this San Polino Brunello is derived from the large Helichrysum (everlasting- or straw-flowers, think big daisies) that grow in the highest (450m altitude), South-facing vineyards of the estate.

The couple who own San Polino go beyond standard biodynamics and practise what they call ‘deep vitiforesty’. This is where they map and encourage the growth of mycorrhizal fungi to integrate the vineyards with the surrounding forests.

Why? I would guess to limit the fertility of the vines and so encourage better-quality fruit. This is a guess, as limit of my knowledge about mycorrhizal fungi pertains to fungal root disease in Alaska. There is no fungal root disease in Alaska (at least not the last time I checked, in 1995).

Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum 2016, San Polino

I double-decanted this an hour before drinking and had a quick taste. Bof! It is a bit of a brute structure-wise, but there are some beautiful flavours swirling in there. I stuck it in the fridge whilst it was breathing as its 14.5% does not need encouraging.

An hour later. The nose has really opened up and is charged with a very complex array of herbal aromas intertwined with big, fat, juicy, black cherry fruit. Really bright and vibrant. Yum, that is rather lamprotic, love the intensity!

I did not have to worry about the alcohol being overt, at least when slightly chilled, it is perfectly in balance with the pulchral fruit and delightful, involute, phytic character. This is a direct communication with top Brunello terroir – I feel proximate to the vineyard – and seriously high-quality, ceraceous Sangiovese fruit. What is not to love?

At ten years old, with a double decant, this is quite open for business and iridal with complexity – I am already thinking about when I am going to ravish my next bottle! Pleasingly (dare I say ‘surprisingly’) for an Italian wine, age has barely conferred any acetic character to it and it is diaphanous‑pure in its communication smartly attired class. That is a great, great Brunello nose!

So, a taste! Wow, remarkably silken and svelte for a wine that has such pronounced structure (strʌk tʃər). A bit behind the nose in terms of its morphogenesis, but I am terribly happy to be enjoying this bottle right now.

Extremely baccate, not missing a gram of fruit after ten years, and that fruit is perfectly ripe with a fine balance between sweetness and refreshing acidity. One would have to have some diseased aversion to pleasure if you failed to love this.

It is extremely long as I swallow – fructuous, sativous and mineral at the same time. Fulgid complexity burns. This is giving me an unhindered connection to the fruit and vineyard and, my, what serious things they are! This is the cat’s arse, and no mistake.

If you give this a decant, there is no problem with pleasuring yourself immensely with a bottle of this now. Equally well, there is no rush at all, you will be well-satisfied by this wine for years to come.

Looking on Wine Searcher, it is quite easy to buy this wine for under £45 a bottle in bond (if you buy a six-pack). Given the exigent nature of buying fine wine these days (and just living in general, to be honest), that is a serious bargain. Cripes, such quality… If you can afford a six-pack (that I, alas, cannot), there are much, much less sensible options to elate yourself with. Tasting this has compelled and inspired me.

It is the day after I wrote the above, it is a bit aporetic… A bit too tortuous, really. I was somewhat pissed and, as I said, I was compelled and inspired by the wine to make an effort. I made too much of an effort. I am too stressed today to re-write it, so please accept my apologies for being too rebarbative.