2012 German Riesling was roaringly successful for Kabinetts and Spatlesen. This may lead snobs and the hard of thinking to think this vintage was in some way a failure. Not a bit of it! When you drink a top Kabinett or Spatlese from 2012 you get incredible amounts of pleasure that should satisfy anyone. If you are not satisfied then it is your problem and do not waste the rest of our time telling us about it! A case in point is this 2012 Schloss Lieser Kabinett which is so gloriously drinkable it is the ultimate quench!

Again, to some hard of thinking the term drinkable might be considered damning with faint praise; I suppose that depends on what you want to drink. Here at Elitistreview Towers we want to drink the very best examples of wines, no matter what their status in a classification hierarchy. Now a Kabinett is actually a thrillingly good classification to be drinking on a regular basis (we have six of these to get through this summer), so therefore the most drinkable Kabinett is a pretty titting amazing thing to be necking with your slow-roast pork shoulder for dinner.

Indeed, I’ve only had one 2012 German Riesling Kabinett better than this 2012 Schloss Lieser Kabinett, but ennui prevented me from ordering that speedily enough. However, I am totally satisfied with this 2012 Schloss Lieser Kabinett; it amply demonstrates that Thomas Haag inherited more of his father’s nigh-peerless skills than his older brother did.

2012 Schloss Lieser Kabinett Brauneberger JufferRiesling Kabinett Brauneberger Juffer 2012, Schloss Lieser

A livid, vibrant nose of perfectly ripe, pure limes, with a seasoning of stoniness. Little Davy tells me this smells like it is alive, and I can see what he means. It is really exciting, focussed and direct.

It is also wonderfully attractive. You smell this 2012 Schloss Lieser Kabinett and you just want to drink, drinkdrink! So I am not going to mess around, this is a wine that has a smell that demands you drink it, so I will, and I bet I will very quickly.

Yum! Lovely fruit! More of those ripe limes, it is a perfectly correct middle-Mosel fruit character. There is a good stony tang to it as well, this tastes good!

The acidity is vigorous and vibrant, painful when it first scalds your stomach but delicious as it fades on your palate. The Germans do say every pleasure ends with a caning… But this acidity is truly special in its balance with the fruit and sugar. It is practically a command to get necking.

What sets this apart as one of the very best Kabinetts ever is its savoury, astringent character. Sure, there is residual sugar in the mix but it tastes like quite a dry, almost severe wine. The balance between fruit, acidity, sugar and savoury dryness makes this a standout wine, and one that you want to drink all day!

This is a, if not thequench!