When one starts thinking about super-elite producers like Domaine Dujac it is easy to get carried away with the heights of their vinous production. This Chambolle village from their negociant operation shows they are capable of the very highest quality across the board, even in less fashionable vintages.
For those who don’t know, Dujac Fils & Pere is the part of Domaine Dujac that uses brought in grapes. Even though they don’t own the vineyards the Dujac team control every bit of the viticulture and harvesting so the wines are Dujac in all but name. They certainly don’t lack for quality and, for those of us who like to drink good things frequently, they don’t leave your bank account in need of a hyperbaric chamber.
Chambolle-Musigny 2007, Dujac Fils & Pere
A supremely pretty nose of lovely, elegant fruit and svelte earthiness. The fruit is ripe raspberries with a bit of blackberry in the family lineage; highly attractive. It is charged with life and vim, really speaking of Chambolle in terms of aroma profile. It smells just the tits, man, I bloody love it. The palate has plenty of bright, fresh fruit, good acidity and a really polished, silky tannic structure. Good mineral complexity and it has decent length. Incredibly elegant and remarkably enjoyable to drink. And that is what it is all about, eh? Being nice to drink. This is elegant and refined, with good complexity and length, but I just want to sit back and enjoy my glassful with a satisfied smile on my face. Lovely.
Non-newscasted readers may recall I had another 2007 Chambolle village recently, Christophe Roumier’s, and may want me to comment on which I preferred. That’s asking a lot, I must say! I’m going to start off being evasive and say there is actually little between them stylistically or qualitatively and move on to a firm opinion by saying, unless you have an annual allocation from Christophe at cellar-door prices (I just get two bottles of the Chambolle village a year, bums), I’d go for the Dujac Fils & Pere in a gnat’s heart beat – it’s far more value-mongous whilst being just as cat’s arse quality.
Editor Daniel and I popped this little charmer to have with our dinner, two rib-eye steaks from Woodlands Jersey Beef. They were quite stunning bits of meat, with a great depth of flavour and a remarkably tender texture. Quite spiffing. You can read my review of Woodlands Jersey Beef here, and their online shop is here.
If I may come around to the title of this piece, this morning I was feeling miserable as sin. I had a cold hanging around, I had really bothersome side effects from my medication and I’d had screamingly horrible dreams that I just couldn’t shake the feeling of after I woke up. I’m a sensitive type (there’s nothing wrong with being sensitive) and my day started out badly.
As the day progressed, I got a bit of writing for my book done, I arranged a meal with some new friends, I spoke to my great chum Jeremy on the phone for 40 minutes (sorry for keeping you away from the family, Jeremy) then I shared this marvellous little wine and a wonderful meal with Dani. I’m now incredibly happy and feel the day has been a great success. I cannot honestly say to myself I’ll sleep like the dead tonight and start off tomorrow feeling on top of the world, but for now, I’m a happy little bunny. Hooray! We should revel in the good moments when they come along.
Your column and all your entries everywhere give me the greatest joy. My sincere wishes for the pleasantest of dreams henceforth.
Thank you, Kenneth, that is jolly kind of you!
Very nice chatting with you last night and very glad that the 2007 Chambolle DFP procured you a sense of enormous wellbeing. Just for the sake of clarity, I’m afraid that we do not control every aspect of viticulture for thes wines. We do control picking, sorting and to a large extent yield. We have made some requests from the growers (stopping herbicides being the main one), but they are still very much in charge of the growing. I am very flattered that you might consider this wine in the same league as Christophe Roumier’s Chambolle village. However, having had that wine recently, it confirmed to me that Christophe had nailed the 2007 like no one else. That is an extraodinary village wine he produced, probably the best village wine I have had in the vintage.
Hi Jeremy, thanks for commenting. My memory is clearly at fault as far as your control of the DFP vineyard work goes; thanks for the correction. However, despite incredible insomnia-related tiredness making most of yesterday evening a blank two things remain in my memory.
Firstly, we finished off your wine and, whilst I do remember Christophe’s being absolutely spiffing and one of the most enjoyable village wines I’ve had in… ohh… a period of time, your Chambollle was simply delicious. A total joy to drink and did not show as a poor relation to the Roumier. Yes, his may be a bit better (we can argue in our next call about the definition of ‘a bit’, I know I certainly fancy ‘a bit’…) but considering the DFP is remarkably affordable and it’s quite beezer quality I maintain for the sensible drinker not buying direct it is the wine to get. I really did love it. It oozed pleasure and, when I was so tired last night, it slapped a big grin across my shagged-out visage.
The second thing I remember is dinner. Dani cooked
Scotch eg… orbs made with Woodlands Jersey Beef sausage meat and they were super brillo. Feast your eyes on these lovelies:
We compared two different egg types, King’s Sombourne and Waitrose’s finest Burford Browns and after much noshing, debate, masticating, analysis and downright rudeness we decided the Burford Browns were very slightly better. We were both a bit surprised by that. Jersey beef Scotch eggs are marvellous, though, I cannot recommend them highly enough. When one reaches the peaks of experience ranking doesn’t matter, but these were clearly the best orbs Dani has made. Topping!
I slept for almost 12 hours. Hooray!
what book are you talking about – wait, one you are going to write ???
Otherwise, beautiful piece, thanks for sharing.
Yes, I am writing a book about Burgundy. It may take a while (as I will continue to write here and I am mad, of course), but I hope it’ll be worth the wait.
Thanks for your message:)