I have a bit of a thing for large formats. Magnums, jeroboams and the like tickle my ticklish bits with more than a suggestion of lubricity. My passion for large formats is clearly born of a desire for self improvement – as William Blake tells us:
“The road of excess leads to the palace of wisdom.”
[image image_id=”4475″ size=”medium” align=”left”]To the left is a picture of the magnums currently gracing the wine cupboard before being moved to longer-term storage. You will note that even a species of creature known for its select tastes and exacting standards, represented in this instance by Kisu the Elitistreview cat, will happily associate with such a jocund display. In total I own 39 magnums and 3 jeroboams which makes for an excellent ratio with respect to half bottles of which I own precisely 2.
[image image_id=”4478″ align=”right” size=”medium”]The primary pleasure of a large format is, of course, that they are a delight to share. Whether it is a magnum imbibed with a friend over lunch or an even more voluminous format popped at a larger gathering, such as the party Alec Seysses (right) is providing with refreshment, they imbue the occasion with a sense of convivial celebration. When a big bottle is broached everyone knows that special efforts have been taken to vitalize the event and elevate their moods; it is hard not to feel suffused with mirth when supping from something extraordinarily large.
For the confirmed oenophile there is a further benefit to buying them big. We are told that large formats age more slowly and predictably. There is some debate about the mechanism behind this, some citing a lower oxygen to liquid ratio, but my experience suggests that, with Champagne at the very least, magnums usually seem fresher than smaller bottles. I rather hope this phenomenon does exist because I have an impressive jeroboam put aside for my 50th which, even given the harrowing proximity of yet another birthday, is an appreciable distance in the future.
I hope I have convinced you, should it have even been necessary, of the joy present in large formats. So I present, in ascending order of price, five large formats the lover of fine things would find hard to refuse.
- Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2009, Chateau Grange Cochard (£29.95 per magnum) which [link2post id=”4443″]I drank a few days ago[/link2post] and can be secured from Berry Bros.
- Bandol 2000, Domaine du Gros Nore (£45 per magnum) which I reviewed [link2post id=”1053″]here[/link2post] and can be purchased from The Tasting Room.
- Beaune Premier Cru Sizies 2007, Domaine de Montille (£59.78 per magnum) is a positive joy to drink now but will be best if you can keep it until 2015, from Lay and Wheeler.
- Geyserville 2008, Ridge (£105 per jeroboam). Ridge are a favourite producer from the US and Geyserville both drinks well young and ages impressively. From Berry Bros.
- Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel 2009, Franz Hirtzberger (£206.60 per jeroboam). One of the stars of the [link2post id=”4128″]Clark Foyster portfolio tasting[/link2post] this buxom beauty is structured to match the hilarity of a big bottle. From Clark Foyster. Isabelle, Lance, don’t let them all go before I score one, please.
I am not sure I would quote from William Blake, David. He was, after all, a religious lunatic -in the (non)sense that his outlook was hideously coloured by the most lurid and ridiculous of “visions”. However, magnums are very jolly and to some extent the joy is exponential. Magnums are probably the premium for champagne. As we know with rare exceptions any larger format means for an untimely recanting. On the subject of which do you remember that fabulous line up at Roederer! Oh if only we had had the fun tokens to score one of those bad boys.But who can forget the large format fun we had when first we stayed chez dujac.
I recall a comment on the antithesis of large formats’ exuberance: “Economy is the art of spending money without having any fun”.
But then, as Voltaire said, “A clever quote proves nothing”.
As far as Champagne jeros etc go the rules changed years ago. They now have to be fermented in the final bottle, no decanting allowed.
I bet Voltaire did not say that. Not least because “quote” is a verb, not a noun. And he was french. I am delighted to learn Champagne can not be re-bottled now. Very sensible. Is it just my good fortune or do you also notice that Champagne seems to suffer less from cork taint?
Voltaire a dit “Un bon mot ne prouve rien”.
The fact that wine from large formats may or may not be of a superior quality aside, what cannot go unsaid is how absolutely fantastic that magnum of Maximin Grunhauser looks. Ed, you still have yours yes? A truly hilarious bottle. I can only wonder what the jero must look like.
Edward you are behind the times. The infallible OED (how can a dictionary from Oxford be wrong?) tells us ‘quote’ is also a noun. I suppose this is the reverse of the brilliant idea that there is no noun you cannot verb.
Dan, flute bottles from Germany, Alsace, and the like are not really silly in jero format, alas. They are very Burgundian in form rather than being jocular constructions of towering slimness. Mags are best for laugh value and clubbing philistines (when empty, natch).
I’ve just received a jero of Ridge Geyserville as a birthday gift – I’m as chuffed as a schoolboy with a new bible to deface with lewd scribblings. It is from 2008 which is a top vintage for Geyserville; it’ll live in the cellar for a decade, I fancy.
Oh yes, corked fizz. My brilliant memory for wine experiences suggests the only one I’ve had was that bottle of 1989 we had chez Pol Roger just before Christian P-R came into the tasting room to press Simpo’s flesh and stun us all with his remarkably diminutive stature. I’m pretty sure that is the only one. Considering the mind-buggering volume of fizz I’ve joyously imbibed this is an incredible hit rate.
I am sad to say that the OED claiming (madly) that “quote” can be a noun is more of record of how words are used rather than how they should be used. I know they are obliged to record these things for academic reasons, but still. Perhaps they could annotate by suggesting how a chap would employ his vocabulary rather than how a chav might? And yes, Daniel. My large bottle of german larks is still waiting for a suitably appreciative audience.
Ed, your German mag would be no match for two eager palettes and one round of Tiger Woods. Stand aside!
David, sad to learn of the lag of German jero hilarity. But agree that the mag would make the perfect weapon for battering philistines.