Rancid loveliness

This Madeira is the cutting edge of Madeira cool. Not something I often say, I admit. It is aged in barrel using the traditional ‘canteiro’ process and bottled without the addition of caramel to colour it.

Malvasia Colheita Cask 21C 1992, Vinhos Barbeito

A reasonably dark orange colour. The nose has rancidity and all of those weird, off flavours of cooking and oxidation that Madeira often has, but it also seems lively and not tired. The palate is rich, but has a savoury character to it. It has very good acidity. The balance is great between richness, acidity and cooked characters. This is really lively. It is also really lovely. Madeira is a weird old wine, not something tuned to modern palates, but this is a fine drink and I have enjoyed it greatly. Knackered wine at its finest.