All posts in Wine

Riesling Kabinett Eitelsbacher Karthauserhofberg 2009, Karthauserhof

Livid, thrilling Riesling

When I tried the 2009s at Howard Ripley’s tasting this stood out as being a top wine. I had forgotten I had already purchased a bottle from the Wine Society for speculative tasting purposes. What a good purchase it was, this wine is just fantastic.

In very ripe vintages like 2009, the lesser quality-level wines can often provide the highest quality/price ratio for the careful buyer


Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites 2003, Domaine Alain Burguet

A rather sophisticated 2003 Burgundy

Alain Burguet was one of the very first producers I visited in Burgundy back in 1994, consequently it I have a bit of a soft spot for his wines; good job they are consistently top performers! The Mes Favorites (just called Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes back then) is regularly better than his Gevrey Premier Crus and is clearly one of the best village wines on the Cote


Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Ile des Vergelesses 2006, Domaine Chandon de Briailles

I am so let down by this

The 2005 example of this wine was quite a charming little drink so I felt quite safe buying some of the 2006. My first taste of it repels me and my fellow drinkers to such an extent that I don’t think we can finish it.

When a producer of such renown as Chandon de Briailles makes such a repulsive wine from such a good vineyard you’ve got to wonder what


Riesling Auslese Piesporter Goldtropfchen 2006, Reinhold Haart

Golden of colour and sweet to the taste

Goldtropfchen is a brilliant vineyard, but until relatively recently no one has been exploiting it to its full potential. When you taste a golden-hued, deliciously fruity wine like this you can see that top wines can be made and so applaud Reinhold Haart for the efforts he has gone to and shout “Shame!” at all those other producers who are wasting their patches of this great vineyard.

As an aside,


Beaune Premier Cru les Sizies 2006,de Montille

A remarkably affordable and delicious Beaune

I don’t drink Beaune wines that often as they rarely engorge my passions, but I got a hot tip that Domaine de Montille were not finding theirs so easy to sell and so prices are currently especially keen


Weingut Willi Schaefer with the vineyards of Graach

Totally beautiful Rieslings

When Willi Schaefer replied in the affirmative to my email asking for a tasting I could have kissed my computer screen. His wines never fail to have me moaning and sighing with uncontrolled ecstasy; I love them unreservedly and so trying some in the company of the man himself promised to be an oenological treat of the highest order


Crozes Hermitage Blanc 'Cuvee Gaby' 2006, Domaine du Colombier

Glue sniffing

Jancis Robinson tells us, in her excellent book Vines, Grapes and Wines: The Wine Drinker’s Guide to Grape Varieties, that the grape from which this is made, Marsanne, smells not unpleasantly like glue. This wine certainly has that character and it is true I am not repelled by this odd set of aromas


David outside Muller-Catoir

A happy re-acquaintance

When I was a student at Oxford I used to buy plenty of Muller-Catoir wines, so many that the wine merchant put neck labels on the bottles saying “David Strange highly recommends this wine”


Kiwi Cuvee Sauvignon Blanc

Duplicity and double standards

Many countries are perfectly happy to swipe the names of fine, usually French, wine growing regions for their pale imitations of the real thing. I never expected the French to sink to such depths: look at the labels below that I saw whilst on holiday.

It does not even claim to be made by a New Zealand winemaker


Ready to dine

Lunchtime drinking with Mac Forbes

Lunch yesterday was a real treat for the Elitistreview team. Not only because we were dining at Hawksmoor, London’s best meat restaurant, nor due to the array of ambrosial wines we had to ingurgitate, but most definitely because we were dining with our favourite Australian winemaker, the distinctly charming Mac Forbes, and his delightful UK agents