Long time readers may remember me slagging off 2007 Weiser-Kunstler Rieslings I purchased on the advice of a friend. I apologise to him and to Mr and Mrs Weiser-Kunstler – with ten years age they are freaking tits-good! The Kabinett I am drinking may not be the very best Riesling to have been chewed thoroughly in my mouth, but it is both extremely serious and a terribly large quantity of fun!
I shall get straight onto the note as I want to tell of the deliciousness of this wine.
Riesling Kabinett Enkircher Ellergrub 2007, Weingut Weiser-Kunstler
Wow, there were really opulent vintages before 2015! The fruit on this is wonderfully ripe and bursting with delicious sweetness. There are still some fresh lime aromas here, but most of the fruit has grown and developed into that glorious mélange of ripe and mature citrus characteristics that people term ‘petrolly’. The fruit is most delicious, but there is more!
This definitely has the slate character that one would expect from Mosel wine. It is rivetingly complex. You feel your nose is glued to the glass, such is its excitement quotient.
However, not everything is good. Just on the edge of all those positive features, you can detect an extremely slight dirtiness – a rottenness gnawing at the edges of the fruit, an unwanted, slightly smelly growth of lichen on the slate.
This is simply a factor of the wine’s age, it has not always been in perfect storage conditions – hot summers in a hot London flat do not count as top quality storage – and, given that, a wine from someone who is not insanely lofty in the German wine Shard of Glass, will just age a bit faster and begin to fall over the edge sooner.
Do not worry if you own some of this wine, though, these unclean characteristics are at the edges of what is perceptible and, if your wine has been extremely well stored you could be in luck and miss them entirely. Now I need a bloody drink.
By my hairy arse, that is acidic! This is the kind of acidity that makes those of us who have damaged our stomachs with too many overdoses wince with pain as we lunge at the bottle to get another glassful (pain or no pain, you don’t turn your nose up at wine this good!). It gives the wine brilliant vivacity and energy that, I do not know about anyone else, but I love it!
The acidity keeps the rich, broad, almost opulent fruit charged with intensity and supremely balanced. There is an impressive amount of sugar in this considering it is a Kabinett. That is what I remember about the 07s, plenty of sugar, very ripe, only the decent producers who managed to keep them in balance by harvesting grapes that were still loaded with acidity. These guys are definitely decent producers, and this is a damned good wine.
However, if you switch your nose, palate and mind to super analytical, I am sorry to say you will taste a hint of baked apple oxidation, and an edge of dirtiness, just a touch, on the finish. Do not let me put you off, though, if you have any of these left, you can drink them with enormous enthusiasm – the better cellared they have been the more so they will provide.
Delicious wine, maybe time to drink, but undoubtedly really lovely and tasty. Top recommendation, Jeremy, how could I have doubted you?!?