It is over two years since I last tried this; I was impressed then. Moreover, I was clearly not worried about its development over the short term otherwise we would not have this bottle remaining in the cupboard. This has lasted just fine.
Louis Michel may not be the very greatest name in this offshoot of Burgundy but the wines are still serious and are amongst the very purist expressions of Chablis, which is itself the most undefiled asseveration of Chardonnay. No buggering about here, this is the vineyard talking with the grapes as an interpreter.
[image image_id=”4343″ size=”medium” align=”left”]Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2005, Louis Michel
The primary character on the nose is a direct, linear stoniness. It has ripe lemon fruit as well, and over the past couple of years it has developed a hint of buttery roundness. I’m finding this nose pleasingly complex in a slightly sylphlike and minimalist style. This suits me just fine – I don’t need to stick my face into a set of buxom bouncers every day.
There is a hint of that butteriness on the palate as well, but only a hint as this basically has the mouth-feel of a bag of acupuncture needles; it is utterly focused and razor sharp. Even the fruit seems to add to this unvarnished precision being of fresh lemon juice character[ref]When life offers you a lemon just say, “Great, I love lemons! What else do you have?”[/ref]. Age hasn’t changed it that much but slightly enhanced its intricacy. I’m getting a real thrill drinking such a nervy wine; this is pretty much the zenith of refined Chardonnay experiences. A few more years will not hurt it but it is just an intense hoot of a wine right about now.
