Some noteworthy wines of 2025

It is the end of 2025. The newly-established Elitistreview team have all had another year of drinking fine wine – the year has not been wasted!

I am sure we all have favourite wines, least favourite wines, memorable wines, and so on. I asked the three new contributors (so far) to Elitistreview to choose five wines of 2025 that made an impression on them and write a few sentences about each one. I am joining in too.

Obviously as this is only a selection of five wines each, the choice is somewhat arbitrary; I can think of many, many bottles that made an impression on me. Hopefully, our selections may give you an idea of the kinds of wines we four writers seek out (in case you need to bribe us, or anything similar).

So, in alphabetical order of Christian name, here are selected wines that made an impression on the current Team Elitistreview in 2025!

Team leader first, as is only right and proper.

Davy

In many ways my choices reflect the pleasure of the company I was with when the wine was tasted. Wine is a great social catalyst – with my friends, the finer the wine the more vigorous the catalysis. However, it is the ‘social’ bit that is ultimately important; drinking any of these wines alone would be profoundly depressing.

Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent 2015, Domaine William Fevre

Fully mature and full of paradoxes. Is it Premier or Grand Cru? Is it dense or is it ethereal? Is it powerful or petite? It is all of those and more.

My favourite Chablis put on a peerless performance with my friends at the 10 Greek Street meal for the 20th anniversary lunch of Elitistreview. I wrote a note here.

Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru les Gruenchers 1999, Domaine Dujac

Red Burgundy does not get appreciably more beautiful than Domaine Dujac, and Dujac does not get more beautiful then Gruenchers (well, there is Clos-St-Denis). A stunningly attractive and love-engorged swansong from Jacques before Jeremy took over in 2001. Jeremy makes wines even more true to Dujac’s picture gallery of Crus than his dad, but with this? I had to hide the droplets of emotion on my cheeks.

With Diana, Finn, James and Jeremy at Jule and Richard’s house for a school night dinner in early November

Champagne Special Club Cuis Premier Cru 2018, Pierre Gimonnet et fils

A scintillating combination of ripeness, finesse, energy and pure love – most appropriate for the circumstances of popping. I have the 2019 at home that I will have the unparalleled delight of sharing with The Editor to see in the New Year. I admit to being a bit scared of drinking that given what Gimonnet’s 2019 Fleuron was like.

One afternoon in late autumn, celebrating the passions and pleasures of life with The Editor.

Cornas Patou 2005, Dumien-Serrette

After silence, that which comes closest to expressing the inexpressible, is this wine.

Syrah can make everything from butch Bourg Cornas to soupy Penfolds’ Grange, with this sophisticated entity on some group of dimensions between those. I wrote an approximation of a note on it here.

For me, wine of the event at the Elitistreview 20th Anniversary lunch (although a more conventional choice would have been Paul’s Ruchottes-Chambertin) – a delight to share this with people I love. My brilliant friend Guy gave me a bottle for my last birthday; I was, and remain, incredibly moved.

Côte-Rôtie Maison Rouge 2012, Domaine Vernay

The second finest lieu-dit of the Côte Blonde at the peak of its seductive powers. Incredible refinement, deft elegance, sensual beauty. Limitlessly pleasurable. All one could hope to have from a Côte Blonde Côte-Rôtie.

The first meal I served this it was paired alongside a Côte-Rôtie 2006 from Domaine Jamet. That was the platonic ideal of a blended lieux-dits Côte-Rôtie. It was undoubtedly wonderful (thank you, Jeremy!), but I chose this because of its transparent communication of a specific, deeply wonderful place. I was so glad everyone liked it – only the best for my friends!

Tasted twice this winter; once at the meal referred to above, and most recently at an excellent early dinner with Ricard and The Editor at 10 Greek Street. Ricard and I wrote a note here.

Leon also appreciates the wonderful confluence of wines and friends.

Leon

Count them – five wines.

Champagne Dom Pérignon P2 2004, Moet et Chandon

A glorious extravagance. Served by the glass at a birthday lunch in A Wong. Incredible depth and intensity, coupled with a kind of joyous lightness. Again, that almost reductive character. Again, the clarity and intensity of the experience, like a high end stereo where you do not realise how loud it is until you try to speak.

This was wonderful wine, enjoyed on a lovely occasion with Mrs M. Unusually, she was even more excited about this than I was.

Chenin Blanc Schist 2021, Mullineux

I have reviewed this on Elitistreview, and drunk it five times over the course of the year. This is one of my favourite discoveries of the year, and possibly the best value wine I bought in 2025. Lovely energy and precision, but there is nothing mean about it. It is all there, just kept in fine definition.

Does it achieve the transcendent heights of the 2018 PYCM Corton Charlemagne? No, but it is in the same area. The price is fantastic for what it is.

Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2007, Lucie & Auguste Lignier

Some wines are fantastic on their own merits. Some remind you of a magical occasion. This was a bit of both.

Bought as part of a random auction lot, I had no idea about this wine. We opened it on one of those Friday evenings at the end of a long week. It was ethereal, savoury and with great length. It just kept going.

It was not fully aristocratic. There was an almost reductive, coke float edge. Just a hint of tar and cigarette ash. Most importantly, Mrs M loved it, commenting, “This is nicer than some of the Monte Bellos we have had”. Coming from her this is high praise indeed.

Château Mouton Rothschild 1975

I tasted this twice over the course of the year. The proprietor of this site thinks I like wines that are past it. I think in this case even he would have to agree that this was tip top.

1975 was a notoriously tannic year and the wines are built for the ages. Colour purple and garnet with very little bricking. On the nose there is lovely pencil lead and still some fruit peeking through. The palate is long, structured, refined. The acids and tannins are still there.

Hermitage 1995, Bernard Faurie

Two wonderful things about this: the personal connection with new and old friends this wine symbolised, and the mysterious alchemy which happens with time, especially to Syrah from the Northern Rhône.

This was served blind at a wonderful dinner with wine-nerd friends from London and Singapore. A fellow diner remarked it was ‘luxe’ and yes, I got that. However, there was nothing glossy or inauthentic about it.

My handwritten notes said, “Like falling into a leather armchair after a long day”. Yes, this had great structure and an aristocratic bearing. It also somehow made one feel at home.

Captain Peter has chosen a brilliant selection.

Peter

Thinking about wines that stood out for me in 2025, I realised there were different possible approaches. I have been fortunate enough in the past year to drink some truly great wines by some of the world’s most celebrated producers, among them Grand Cru Burgundies from Domaine Dujac and Armand Rousseau, and a wonderful old Hermitage from Chave.

Another way of looking at it is to focus on wines that not only delighted me, but which educated me, taught me about things I had not been sufficiently aware of. Especially in a world of spiralling costs for the world’s great wines, such revelatory experiences are particularly valuable and appreciated. Here are five such wines.

Riesling Grand Cru Rosacker “Calcaire” 2023, Julien Schaal

For some reason, in recent years I have not drunk Alsatian Riesling all that often. How remiss of me. This was a wonderful wine from the vineyard of the marvellous Clos Sainte Hune. Given its provenance, the quality is perhaps not surprising. Without exaggeration, one of the great Alsatian Rieslings, at a bargain price.

Cornas Patou 2005, Dumien-Serrette

I drink quite a lot of northern Rhone wines, partly because I love them, and partly because they still afford one the pleasure of great wine without destroying the bank balance. This was a wonderful Cornas, from a producer I need to pay more attention to in future. The lovely mellow character of an aged wine at the peak of its drinking.

Davy adds: Great minds think alike, old chap!

Brunello di Montalcino 2016, Casanova di Neri Tenuta Nuova

An old friend kindly invited me to a Brunello tasting at Uncorked in London. Among several lovely wines, it was hard to pick one that stood out, but I chose this one. Bursting with intense, vibrant fruit, with wonderful depth, backbone and structure. A beautiful wine.

Porseleinberg Syrah 2017, Callie Louw

The quality of South African wines is by now widely recognised. I am firmly converted. This was very Rhoney in style. Concentrated dark fruit flavours, peppery and with intense overtones of dates. Really good stuff.

Rară Neagră 2023, Castel Mimi

Some might see a wine from Moldova as a bit of a wild card. But I am unapologetic about including it. The Rară Neagră deserves to take its place as one of Europe’s quality red wine grapes. With its bright, intense sour cherry flavours and acidic grip, this wine helped redefine my appreciation of Moldova and its wines.

We end with Ricard, who has chosen six wines.

Ricard

Everybody loves lists but everybody hates lists. Lists sort, rank, condense, simplify. Life resists all of this. Beauty resists all of this. But we want to do it, because life is short, lists imply (though do not guarantee) discernment, and we need discernment so we can muddle through the mess.

Happily I am possessed of discernment in matters vinous, and here are, of the 156 wines I have written about thus far in 2025, the six most memorable.

In ascending order of vintage:

Barolo Riserva 1967, Giacomo Borgogno & Figli

Not only the best wine of 2025, but one of the greatest wines I’ve ever tasted, let alone guzzled without mercy. I was cautious – if all else fails, age is the final killer – so there was risk. But this wine was a potion. A potent, mythical, wizard’s potion. This supreme elixir had impeccable acidity, sublime sphericity, all the structure, no tannin, just pure lustre and limitless length. I would happily make this my last wine experience before I depart this earthly life. For the moment I intend to be around for a long while yet, and have a few more like this.

Had this at home with three guests who like Barolo. I threw in two ’67s and look what happened.

Rioja Contino Reserva 1974, Bodegas y Viñedos del Contino

This is an extremely rare wine: the very first vintage of what has become a Rioja great. Contino has now been around for a “mere” half-century, but its first vintage, made by José Madrazo, the father of legendary winemaker Jesús Madrazo, is a stonking good tipple, tremendous from beginning to end. All of the aromas that you would expect. All of the rich fruit and lots and lots of tertiary aromas. Abundant spices and pepperiness. A glorious sweetness of vanilla as well from the oak. And on the mouth a perfectly rounded wine. Expansive. Giving. Generous. Throbbing with effulgent joy.

Had this at home with the buying team of the Wine Society.

Rioja Imperial Reserva 1978, CVNE

A mythological wine. An explosion of sandalwood, leather, cloves. Imperial is a brilliant wine, a wine of immense elegance, longevity and intentional seriousness. The 1978, though, is one of its great performances. What a year! Exquisitely structured, poetic and bursting with emotion and devotion to its origins. A magnificent wine, a devastating wine. The very definition of beauty.

Had this in Shoreham-by-Sea at the home of a kind and generous friend who gave me supper.

Priorat Mas Doix Costers de Vinyes Velles 2001, Mas Doix

Bought a six-pack at auction in 2024 and had four of them this year. Very little variation in quality, despite the age. I dither as to whether Priorat should be drunk young or old. I do not think, like Barolo and Rioja, and dare I say, Claret, it should be had much older than 20 years, but I am open to exceptions. Port-like nose of raisins, figs, caramel, toasted notes, pine nuts, carob, liquorice… Firmness and structure (although fading) as well as concentrated fruit, velvet tannin, and a goodly amount of sweet and even hot spice, as well as a tiny amount of residual sugar from late harvesting (my guess). Wears its alcohol very lightly. Supremely elegant, serious, and deeply enjoyable.

Had this in various contexts, including a memorable lunch with Davy and The Editor.

Riesling Smaragd Ried Kellerberg 2011, F.X. Pichler

The one white in this list. A Riesling of course, but from Austria. At 14.5% ABV, it is quite boozy-bonkers for a Riesling. A fantastic wine, weighty and viscous, but reliably Riesling-ly firm. Pears are the dominant note, with a caramelised sensation, like a pear tart. And star anise. But mostly I like the oleaginous texture of this wine, which thanks to high acidity never loses its way or focus. Glorious wine with years of joy yet to give.

Another one I had with the Society tasting team.

Davy notes: The 2002 was staggeringly good this summer in Vienna with The Editor’s birthday dinner – quite the best Austrian wine I have ever tasted. A superlative wine for a joyous occasion.

Barolo 2020, Comm. G.B. Burlotto

The “basic” Barolo from the sorcerer of Nebbiolo Fabio Alessandria is not remotely basic. 2020 is an “in-between” year, trying to whisper something between the far more lauded vintages before and after. An absolute marvel of a wine. Instantly glorious. Just the colour – light garnet, pale and mysterious. Ethereal, almost ghostly. A soaring perfume of black tea leaves, mahogany, dried rose petals, rosemary, shoe polish, all gently coated with sweeter notes of cassia bark, nutmeg, pomegranates, and perhaps some bloodier notes of beetroot and iron. Incredible tension. The exact balance of acidity, savouriness and weightlessness I most admire. What a wine!

Had this in Noble Rot with a friend.

Happy New Year from
all at Elitistreview