I just popped a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Nicolas-François 1996 – I was appalled by its oxidised and generally crapulent state. I suppose I should not be so surprised as I’ve had tired Bollinger, Pol and Salon 1996 in recent times, but this bottle is so far gone it makes vintage Madeira look like a model of un-blemished juvenescence. Bad show, Mr Billecart, you have let me down.
This calls for a bottle to make up for the dreadfulness of a bottle of fizz being knackered. Editor Daniel said he wanted low-acidity and suggested white Burgundy. I like white Burgundy and I like it with acidity so I am opening some Roulot. This seems like a safe choice (in all but the acidity requirement) as his reductive wine-making style has never produced a wine I’ve tried to be oxidised or shagged-out. Indeed, they are normally tightly wound bundles of minimalist intensity. I’ll get on with the drinking and tasting note now:[image image_id=”4639″ size=”medium” align=”left”]
Meursault ‘Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir’ 2004, Domaine Roulot
By arse, this is a beautifully poised nose of finesse and delight. It is just becoming fully mature and there is a great tension between age and youthful tightness here, with buttery richness matched to attractive lemon fruit. It has an amazing creamy minerality. This just smells fantastic, no-holds-barred exquisite elegance. The palate has some wonderful density from maturity, allied to a lightness of fruit and charged with brilliant acidity. The fruit and minerality persist on the finish for an impressive period of time and the sophistication is just stunning. I love this wine with a lewdly intense passion, my remaining bottles will only last a few years in my greedy, wanton hands.