Really, it is time to drink

There have been many heated satellite connections between here and Burgundy on the subject of Salon’s cellaring potential. I think the Jury is out until a tasting at the producer can be organised, but this is really up for drinking. It is quite, quite lovely.

Blanc des Blancs Le Mesnil 1996, Salon

A lovely nose of buttered bread and creamy minerality. This is fresh and lively, but the aromas to seem the merest hint on the oxidative side (is that ‘brown’ verses ‘grey’ aromas?). I cannot deny it is really complex, vinous and very compelling. The palate is very vinous too, like a Grand Cru Chablis of quite mind-buggering brilliance that has the most refined of mousses. It is totally pleasing Champagne, with surprising density and thrilling complexity for a Blanc des Blancs. Why risk ageing it? This is currently delivering extraordinary pleasure. I’ll open mine soon.

Some may disagree, but I prefer Krug.

I wonder if the 1996s will have the longevity I orginally expected. I’ve got some great stuff, that I don’t want to get over the hill, but properly mature Champagne is a marvel.