Gewurztraminer is one of those grape varieties one either loves or loathes. This is a damned good example that is up for drinking now.
[image image_id=”2518″] Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Altenbourg “Cuvee Laurence” 2002, Domaine Weinbach
This has a lovely nose of banana fruit and rich spiciness. There is some real earthy complexity here, which raises this wine above the normal Gewurztraminer simplicity. Even though the fruit is very ripe this is no booze-tastic horror; it is perfectly balanced. I love its mineral charm. On the palate the fruit reminds me very much of those foam banana sweets, a wine for those in touch with their youthful-side. The palate is surprisingly, and pleasingly, dry. OK, there is plenty of fruit and a hint of alcohol warmth, but these don’t detract from what is a very pleasing palate. This is not a bottle of
Zind-Humbrecht tart-fuel as so many people expect from Alsace Gewurzt. There is a real degree of complexity and style here. I admit I don’t drink Gewurzt that often, it rarely provides as much pleasure as this, but I am enjoying this wine greatly. I have simple needs, I am easily satisfied with the best, and this wine is satisfying me no end. I’d drink it within the next few years. The Weinbach ladies are lovely people (bien loché, if I am honest) and they make top bunny wines. Well worth looking out for any of their Grand Cru offerings.
Ah! Gewurtz is a guilty pleasure, but neddlessly really. I mean, if you could invent a flavour it would be pretty close. A little more acidity would help and all that, but still. Even as I think of it I smile. Some peking duck or scallops? What larks! And as for the Fallers, you always did enjoy the fuller figured lady.