A duff vintage?

I am not the biggest fan of Burgundy 1998s, they often seem hard and tough. This is a bit of a shame as it is one of the two vintages I’ve assisted with. However, this wine seems rather nice.

Volnay Premier Cru Champans 1998, Marquis d’Angerville

A bright, lively nose of red fruit. It is full of life, complexity and charm. The alcohol is a bit noticeable, but not frighteningly unbalanced. On the palate the acidity seems a tiny bit high, but there is plenty of fruit and it is really quite complex. The finish seems plenty long enough. One of the best 1998s I’ve had and, more generally, a very good bottle of Burgundy.