A surprisingly forward Prum Riesling Auslese

I’ve been in no fit state to drink for the past period of time. I’ve been afflicted by a rather nasty cold that resulted not only in the production of epic quantities of snot but also had the effect of me I losing my voice for several days – something I have not experienced before. Given my status as a fairly mouthy arse I don’t mind telling you that this made me severely vexed. It is great to be able to taste wine once more and also talk about it in a loud and opinionated manner to anyone who is within earshot.

I’d normally expect a Prum wine that is merely seven years old to be rather tight and unyielding yet this one, whilst being far from fully mature, is positively of easy virtue (relatively speaking). All its fruit is very enjoyable, but it is the finely balanced, razor-sharp, electric acidity derived from this only moderately warm vintage that is inflaming my passions.

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Riesling Auslese Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2004, Joh Jos Prum

This nose is engorged with lemon and lime fruit that seem so ripe they almost have a suggestion of exotic character, I wouldn’t have expected that from a 2004. This, together with the almost total lack of sulphury swimming pool aromas, make the nose distinctly forward and, if I dare say this about a young Prum (dare, Strangey, dare!), it is libidinously voluptuous. Certainly complex, though, there is more than enough slate mineral character here to keep the lover of correct Mosel qualities happy. Wow, the palate is permeated with a brilliant, star-bright acid/mineral character that has me chortling with mirthful satisfaction. The fruit still seems remarkably ripe coming from a leaner vintage, but its harmony with the acid and stone character titillates and thrills. It is reasonably sweet, but with the high acid level the palate has a distinct savoury character which I rather like. Its flavours last longer than most blokes would with Kirsten Dunst. Clearly well titted out with pleasurable traits to enjoy now but I feel no rush to pop my single remaining bottle. Cracking good stuff.

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