Firstly, let me apologise for the lack of posts recently. I’ve started psychotherapy and that has given me a lot to think about, and I don’t feel like getting lubricated to do that thinking. Still, the psychotherapy should be useful so hopefully I’ll be less unhinged on here when it’s over.
To wine! 2010 was a great vintage in all of Burgundy, including Chablis. This Louis Michel Grand Cru reminded me a lot of his 2000s that I stocked up on. It has similar density but far more finesse. The wine could certainly age for a while longer, but it was a real treat to drink a wine expressing such character. Buy some from the Wine Society and keep it a few years.
Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2010, Louis Michel
As I pour this initially it’s very tightly bound with only a fresh, floral set of aromas and some stoniness showing. It needs air – breathe, Chablis! Go on, breathe! It also doesn’t need to be too cold; people who serve quality white Burgundy right out of the fridge are just pissing away the good times they could have. As it becomes more ventilated the stoniness increases and is joined by an oddly olive-like fragrance. Louis Michel may like doing it with stainless steel equipment, but the olive/rubber/wood types of aromas edge toward being a smidgen unclean. Not the rancid dog rottenness of Raveneau, but not ultra-licked spotless. Still, those aromas are not entirely unattractive. It may not quite smell like a typical Chablis-drinkers’ preferred bevvie, but by arse is it complex and stylish! There are layers of power on this nose that make me think it’s going to be quite a mouthful. And it is dense and thick in texture but charged with elegance and élan. Calling this energised would be grossly flattering battery-powered rabbits. It has a great savoury bite, with top tapir acidity and a beguiling nutty, stony, woody tang. It reminds me of cricket bats. The finish is simply amazing. For minutes after swallowing it feels like my palate and stomach have been worked over with a meat tenderiser – cracking! Its energy, power, delicacy and complexity at this young age make it far more entertaining to drink and talk about than watching the India-England match currently in progress. Yeah, man, I greatly look forward to coming back to this wizard wine in the future, but I have no regrets about popping this bottle this afternoon.
Two points: Drinking half a bottle of this cured my aching back. Grand Cru Chablis is brillo with roast ham.