Category: France
Burgundy
Freddie Esmonin cannot go on like this forever. People must be leaving bags on dried tannin on his door-step. He must get notes pushed through his letterbox urging him …
Alsace
Now, let us make one thing abundantly clear, I have loathed Zind-Humbrecht wines with furious intensity since about 2005. At my own urging I purchased piles of 1989, 1990 …
Burgundy
I feel a bit guilty opening this wine. Lovely, small-scale Beaune Premier Crus that, with their abundant fruit and easy charm, seem like they will drink best as soon …
Burgundy
Gevrey-Chambertin is the home of the most modern, international-styled Burgundies. Dark colours, big, bold tannins, high alcohol levels, usually a lot of new oak too. If you like your …
Burgundy
When it comes to de Montille wines, historically the real bum-biters were the Volnays and Pommards. Yes, now they have expanded their range the Nuits Aux Thorey and Vosne …
Burgundy
Sometimes I wonder why I buy Corton; it is so often thin, lean and green. I suppose that is why I now only buy it in super-ripe vintages. Even …
Germany
On Monday night we returned, with our excellent friend Ricard, to Hawksmoor Spitalfields in London for the first time in three years. There was a time where nearly 10% …
Rhône
Hermitage Blanc. Why? Just why? It is often more expensive than its red sibling, whilst not being a conventionally nice drink. It has an awfully unpredictable ageing profile, that …
Burgundy
Wines like the two I report on below make you seriously consider that red Burgundy could be a far more wonderful experience than even German Riesling. These two may …
Burgundy
Are not de Montille labels incredibly cool? Even when they say ‘Beaune’ on them, which are by far their least flash wines. Not that they are bad, you understand. …
