Tonight’s Chambolle-Musigny throbs with life but the Collioure is too old

It is always nice to be given a gift, particularly one that has been well-chosen to match one’s passions. Consequently, I was terribly pleased to be given this bottle of Chambolle-Musigny. I love Chambolle and this one was from a respected producer whose wines I rarely drink so my interest is quite piqued. A wonderful gift much appreciated by me and the lovely friends I shared it with. Many thanks Luke!

Mourvedre based wines also trickle my fancy and the Collioure we had after the Burgundy is almost completely made from that grape. In all honesty I am disappointed nine years age has been too much, it did seem to be on its way out rather than bursting with vigorous youth. At least it displayed some of the scented elegance one often finds in mature Mourvedre wines. Not undrinkably knackered and generally shagged-out but I should have really necked this a couple of years ago.

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Chambolle-Musigny ‘Coeur de Pierres’ 2007, Frederic Magnien

This nose is quite pretty – highly scented with lots of of refined and reasonably sophisticated fruit which has a slight floral character. There is a reasonable minerality here and it shows a pleasing degree of dimension. It may only be a village-level wine but its set of aromas have some proper class to them. The palate is delightfully suffused with gorgeous fruit supported by a sleek tannic structure and satisfyingly harmonious acid levels. Overall, the texture is rather velvety and I’m finding it charged with jouissance; this is why we drink Chambolle villages. Clearly imbued with the personality of 2007, an accessible and well-titted out vintage for red Burgundy. You could keep it if you really insist on deferred enjoyment but as this is such a fanciable drink right now I’d suggest you neck your bottles soon; they will not lack pleasure if you do.

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Collioure ‘Clos du Moulin’ 2001, Domaine du Mas Blanc

I’m glad I stood this up for a few days and then decanted it before pouring, it has thrown an impressive amount of sediment. Its nose is scented with soft, mature fruit and complex herbal attributes. There is a degree of Mourvedre arsehole-character on the nose but it is really the fruit, herbs and a rich earthiness which dominate. However, it is noticeably mature; definitely on the tired side of expression rather than bursting with the robust, strapping life it used to possess. Some people have ventured that old Mourvedre wines can smell a bit like Claret but I think this is because wines at this stage of evolution just have a definite old wine aroma and for many people the old wines they usually drink are red Bordeaux which are clearly past it. The palate has some fruit and earthiness, but is definitely more than beginning to dry out. What remains is quite tasty but I really have kept this too long, a couple of years ago it had the vigour to be a more complete drinking experience. I am a tad surprised this wine has become over-mature after a paltry nine years, I thought it had the brawny guts to last longer. We live and learn, I suppose.