Wine » United States

The Youth of Bacchus

40th birthday wine poll

Given my youthful visage and playful attitude you may be surprised I was born almost forty years ago; my birthday party is in November. It’ll be a quiet little affair with a few select friends whom I like, nay, love deeply and want to celebrate with that one day a year one gets old on. […]


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Dinner at casa Percival

We recently had the wonderful pleasure of dinner with Bronwen and Francis Percival, food and cheese gods of London, Burgundy and beyond. They cooked amazing food and, fitting Bronwen’s role as head cheese buyer for Neal’s Yard Dairy, truly brilliant cheese. I cannot remember the myriad of cheeses we tried, but I’ll start off with […]


Peter Sidebotham with Roumier Chambolles and Rhys Pinot Noir

Two Roumier Chambolles

I visit Christophe Roumier every year – he is one of the great producers of Chambolle-Musigny. However, after I have tasted from cask most of the wines I buy go straight into the cellar. Consequently, it was a real treat to try two Chambolle villages at a relatively early stage of development. They provided very […]


Brooks Janus Pinot Noir 2007 - it's scrummy!

Pretty, poised Pinot

In my ; Pinot Noir is even better. A well-made Pinot Noir from an interesting location is titillates every faculty – from the intellectual thrills of its transparent expression of origin and the wine-maker’s ability to the often frankly lubricious delight of its beautiful fruit and satisfying mouth-feel it totally pleasures the enlightened drinker. If […]


Brooks Ara Riesling 2008 from Oregon

Dry and direct

Riesling is great stuff, either you love it or you are wrong. Given the screaming peaks of brilliance it can attain it seems a shame that such a relatively small proportion of growers manage to extract the best from it. I have tried Brooks Riesling from the Willamette Valley in Oregon in the past and […]


Riesling Spatlese Graacher Domprobst 2005, Willi Schaefer

Top Zinfandel, thrilling Mosel Riesling and sweet but tired Alsace Pinot Gris

Ridge have long been a favourite producer of Zinfandel, the wines have always been harmonious and age surprisingly well for entities of such scale. I enjoyed this greatly as far as wines in a voluptuous style go. Willi Schaefer rarely fails to disappoint and this was an effort engorged with livid, sophisticated class. Very ripe […]


Four and a half years on

This was one of the first wines . Back then I said it needed food with unbound proteins and it seemed to work a treat with braised oxtail tonight. Dominus 2000 There is an explosion of ripe, sweet blackcurrant fruit on the nose. Dare I say it, is this a bit earthy? It certainly has […]


Tiring but lovely

We picked this up in Washington DC when we went on our little holiday out there. This has aged faster than I’d have expected but it is still rather nice. Josh Jensen of Calera has made some of the great non-Burgundian Pinot Noir’s I’ve had. Indeed, off the Cote I think Mr Jensen and Mr […]


I’ve mentioned necrophilia, now I move onto flesh

In a nice way, obviously. Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ‘Six Vineyards’ 2006, Lemelson Vineyards OK, this is a relative booze-monster as far as Pinot Noir goes, but it has a really charming fleshy, fruity nose. There is some woody spice on the nose and it integrates just fine with the fruit. Perhaps not the most […]


Quality heroism

I’ve been let out of the bin for three hours escorted leave; the partner is making sure I am not doing anything bad. Not that I would, as I am sure you’ll be pleased to hear I am feeling a lot better. Well, unless you hate me in which case you’ll curse the name of […]

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