Wine » Sub-interest wine

Pinot Noir 'Rachel' 2008, Seresin is merely drinkable yet over-priced

The staggeringly lacklustre and pitifully acceptable

Sometimes you fancy something different, happens to us all, and so you shop outside your normal parameters. Of course, this is a path fraught with danger and the peril of heinous suffering. We all do it anyway. The Albarino was the only white wine, beyond Sherry, I have found I could reliably manage to tolerate [...]


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Vapid-personality Riesling

I’ll come clean, when I find that a Riesling has low alcohol and is bottled with a bit of residual sugar I am a real sucker for it. I buy a bottle enthusiastically and hope it’ll deliver even a small fraction of the thrilling, nervy tension of wines made in the home of this style, [...]


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The worst possible place to buy wine

How many times have you heard people braying with irritating smugness about all the wonderful cheap wine they have picked up in French supermarkets? Endlessly, I’ll wager. Well next time you hear some smug arse prattling out this tosh I strongly suggest you make it abundantly clear you could think of few experiences as dreary [...]


Riesling Spatlese Graacher Domprobst 2002, Willi Schaefer

This Zind-Humbrecht tastes of shit

It is a Saturday, there is cricket on, Riesling is called for! Last time they were rather good, this time… deary me… Zind-Humbrecht wines, particularly the flasher Grand Crus, do strike me as being rather unstable beasts and so it is somewhat of a lottery ageing the blighters. These two bottles had been kept in [...]


The range we tasted

Just how good are 2007 and 2006 Meursaults?

Regular readers may recall that in my I roundly abused their Meursault producer Domaine Latour Giraud. Lance Foyster clearly took this criticism seriously as earlier today I was invited to their offices to re-taste the wines in the context of others from the village. We tasted the wines blind and when it came to discuss [...]


Katie gets enthused about pizza

Burgundy from Meursault, Morey and Gevrey, an aged Beaujolais and knackered Alsace Riesling

Last night I had the great pleasure to visit my friends James and Katie in the company of recurrent drinking buddy ‘The Kid’ Peter for a comparative tasting of Clapham’s pizza establishments. As you can see, Katie gets rather enthusiastic about pizza. The Burgundies we opened were all wonderful, in an irksomely prejudice denying manner [...]


Crozes-Hermitage 'Domaine Raymond Roure' 2003, Paul Jaboulet Aine

Pretty German Riesling and a detestable Crozes-Hermitage

German 2009 Rieslings are generally a complete delight, tonight’s example demonstrated this quality reasonably well. The neighbours, editor Daniel and I found it to be perfect for lubricating the kind of psychological apparatus that often gets a touch out of alignment at the start of the week. The Crozes, on the other hand, buggered my [...]


Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon and Ribbon Vale Cabernet Merlot

Why do I keep buying Moss Wood Cabernet?

I have been buying Moss Wood Cabernet since the early 1990s when it was hilariously cheap at Grape Ideas in Oxford, but I have no idea why I keep doing so: Cabernet rarely thrills me and neither do over-blown booze monsters. As it is currently the price of a pretty decent bottle of Burgundy I [...]


Two Lafon Volnays

Burgundy with sushi

It has been a bumper period of time as far as meeting my readers goes; first Guy, then Dan and last night it was my distinct pleasure to encounter Richard Brooks. There is something about these fellows which I didn’t expect considering they read this vastly opinionated spume of drivel. It is not that they [...]


Grilled bone marrow

Monday at Hawksmoor: first-class meat, exceptional wines and terrific company

Yesterday I had the great pleasure to dine at Hawksmoor, London’s best meat restaurant, in the company of some engaging and entertaining chaps. Many thanks to Guy Dennis for organising it; it was lovely to see you and Paul Day again and distinctly jolly to make the acquaintance of Nigel Platts-Martin, a restauranteur with a [...]

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