Wine » Portugal » Madeira

Cabo Girao from viewpoint

Barbeito Madeira

You can reach for the stars if you climb the Cabo Girao at 589 metres above sea level. Alternatively you can taste vinous stars if you call Sergio to take you up a little higher to the Vinhos Barbeito winery. There you can learn about the insanely complex process of turning underripe wines (from grapes […]


Old and knackered? Less so than me

I love Madeira; all of those weird, rancid and off flavours that combine to make a lovely, complete booze experience are a joy. This is a particularly tits bottle. Madeira Boal Reserva 1968, d’Oliveiras Quite dark orange, with the weird green rim you only seem to find on Madeira. The nose bursts with brazil and […]

Honestly, it is not ruined

I have said before that Barbeito colheitas are the cutting edge of Madeira cool and this one demonstrates that admirably. This is made by the traditional ‘canteiro’ process (it is matured in a warm warehouse rather than being heated artificially) and is not coloured with caramel. The back label tells us this cask was at […]

A slow start

The first general drinking entry from my stay in Burgundy. This is what we drank on the Saturday of our arrival. Grüner Veltliner Ried Lamm 2000, Brundlmeyer Ripe, powerful nose of white pepper and alcohol. Why do all these Austrian winemakers strive to show how ripe they can get their grapes? Big, weighty palate, but […]

Off but on

I’ve just had some more , it is terribly good. Straight out of the fridge it really shows that it can be a refreshing drink thanks to all of that acidity. I like its slightly off, savoury character too. Oddly, there is some fruit as well. I admit it is candied, preserved fruit, but fruit […]

Rancid loveliness

This Madeira is the cutting edge of Madeira cool. Not something I often say, I admit. It is aged in barrel using the traditional ‘canteiro’ process and bottled without the addition of caramel to colour it. Malvasia Colheita Cask 21C 1992, Vinhos Barbeito A reasonably dark orange colour. The nose has rancidity and all of […]