Wine » Germany

Loosen really can deliver the goods with some of their wines

Sometimes Dr Loosen wines just seem a bit simple, sometimes they seem like they will not age, but when you buy the right stuff in the right vintages by merkin can they be fantastic. Riesling Auslese GoldKap Erdener Pralat 1997, Dr Loosen Bit orange, which I suppose shouldn’t worry me as it is so old [...]


This is one of my favourite wines to blind taste

Weingut Fritz Haag make extremely distinctive wines, which I hope I do a good job of blind tasting. They have a brilliant purity of expression which, whilst you can sometimes confuse with Prum or Thanisch wines, you’d hope to get right. This is because there is a very strong vineyard character which is recognisable vintage [...]


These 07 German wines can be so good

And this is a goodie, alright. Riesling Spatlese Kiedrich Grafenberg 2007, Weingut Robert Weil A wonderful, precisely-defined nose of citrus fruit and minerality. This smells charged with life, a really exciting array of aromas. It has the ripeness of 2007, alright, this is one ripe-bitch-mother of a Spatlese. The palate has spell-binding acidity and is [...]


This is why we drink Burgundy (and why we don’t buy ZH)

Earlier tonight we ate reasonably well and had some truly mind-bendingly good wines. This is what life is all about. One wine, however, disappointed. Shame, Olivier Humbrecht, shame! Brut Chardonnay 1996, Pol Roger A wonderful, dense nose of bread and digestive biscuits. Very complex, and just beginning to show a reasonable degree of maturity. That [...]


Lovely limey life

That acidity may hurt, but it shows that you are alive. Alive and enlightened if you are drinking this. When I was a beginner in the field of German wine, a long time ago, it was generally considered that Himmelreich was the best vineyard in Graach, thanks to Schaefer that view has now changed. Riesling [...]


I need more 2007 German wine

The question is, which ones? As my long-term readers know I have almost no cash; I cannot afford much. I am torn between getting 6 bottles of good quality kabinett/spatlese type wines or 3 flashier bottles of top Auslesen. I need guidance. This calls for another fantastic Elitist Review poll! Free Web Poll As usual, [...]


Golden name, golden colour

This wine is from Roman Niewodniczanski*, the Saar’s arch-master of these weirdy almost-dry German Rieslings. His wines really impressed me when I first tried them, but I’ve had one or two since which have been a bit too weird. This seems nice enough, but rather forward. Riesling ‘Goldberg’ 2007, Van Volxem Quite a dark yellow [...]


Fizzing with fun

Some 2007s have closed up, this isn’t one of them. Riesling Kabinett Graacher Domprobst 2007, Willi Schaefer This is burning with limey life on the nose with a fantastically focussed slatey minerality. This smells totally thrilling and completely delicious. There is a satisfying purity to the nose as well. Oh I like this, it speaks [...]


Necrophilia and infanticide

OK, based on my last taste of the 97 this won’t be necrophilia, but what more can you ask from the title of a post than a suggestion of horrible sexual perversion? Riesling Auslese Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Fuder 6 1997, Fritz Haag A really strong nose of that complex citrus character we like to call ‘petrolly’. [...]


How much more intense can you get?

The answer is ‘None, none more intense’. Riesling Auslese Kiedrich Grafenberg 2005, Weingut Robet Weil The nose of this is utterly refined and pure. Sure, it is really minerally and vineyardy, but it just reeks of super-focussed citrus fruit. Amazing, stunning and intense. And yet, it is really buxom, ripe and fruity enough to charm [...]