Wine » Germany

More excess from 2003

More evidence of the super-ripeness of 2003 grapes. This doesn’t really make for a refreshing drink on a hot afternoon. Riesling Kanzemer Altenberg Alte Reben 2003, van Volxem A very dense nose of ripe fruit, it smells quite Muscatty so overt is it. There is a bit of citric fruit as well, but it could [...]


Bonkers Riesling

Roman Niewodniczanski of Van Volxem makes some novel wines. Rather than the traditional practise of labelling the wines according to ripeness of the grapes, and thereby making several wines from one vineyard, Van Volxem wines are all just labelled with a vineyard name, no ripeness. Moreover, the wine is fermented drier, to a higher alcohol [...]


Last night’s general drinking #4

Last night we had a dinner party with some lovely friends. It went on well into the early hours of the morning, and a lot of wine was consumed. Champagne Henriot 1996 Nice enough, but it seemed to be lacking a touch of rigour. It was reasonably complex and quite ripe, but not enough acidity [...]


Fizzy lime

After a terribly dull Korean meal I fancied something nice to drink. Riesling Auslese Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg 1999, Karthäuserhof Light green/yellow colour. There are bubbles collecting around the base of the glass so I expect a bit of fizzy spritz. The nose smells very strongly of ripe limes, flint and there is a hint of botrytis [...]


More conventional loveliness

I enjoyed that Madeira so much I wanted something else nice to drink. Luckily, I’ve got plenty of nice things available. Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1997, Dr Loosen This is as fruity as I remember it being when I purchased it on release. It bursts with fresh, citric fruit and a slate-y minerality. Quite lovely [...]


Two Rieslings

I just felt in need of beauty tonight. Riesling Brauneberger-Juffer Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkapsel Fuder 9 1994, Fritz Haag A beautiful nose of botrytis, slate and petrol. The nose is quite developed. The palate has really quite a lot of acidity, but is balanced by plenty of ripeness and fruit. It is very long and speaks [...]


Last night’s general drinking #3

A lovely birthday meal last night, with plenty of people present who I am lucky enough to count among my friends. We ate well and drank exceptionally well. Krug 1990 This was a seriously fine bottle of champagne. It was quite acidic and austere, but had plenty of weight and power. It was very ripe [...]


Last night’s general drinking #2

A few things last night when a chum dropped around for dinner. Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg L31D 2002, Domaine Albert Boxler This was really good, a great balance between ripe fruit, minerality and acidity. It was lively, invigorating and exciting. A top drink. Domaine de Trevallon 1997 For those who don’t know, a Cabernet/Syrah blend [...]


Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1999, Egon Müller - A fine and refreshing wine

Acidity can be a good thing

Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett 1999 from Egon Muller This is a serious wine. The nose is packed with ripe citrus fruit and a severe minerality that makes it burst with life. The palate is frighteningly acidic, but the wine is ripe and fruity enough for this to be a balanced and invigorating drink. The finish is [...]

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