Wine » France

I seek pleasure

This is a good wine, but it is perilously lacking in charm. I realise it is terribly young, but I do wonder whether this will become lovely with age. Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2002, Domaine Chandon de Briailles This is a very pale coloured Burgundy, but there is nothing wrong with that. The nose has a [...]


Another thing I love

A wine drank recently that similarly tickled my lovely bits as did the Boxler was one I failed to write up here. I provide the name as a recommendation as something affordable to look out for: Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg Vieille Vigne 2001 from Domaine Bruno Sorg. This was an excellent dry, stylish and direct [...]


The power and the beauty

Jean Boxler hits the spot once again with a brilliant wine. The mystic code refers to the plot of the Sommerberg Grand Cru that this wine is made from. Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg L31E 2002, Domaine Albert Boxler The nose is incredibly stony but has a lot of ripe fruit; grapefruit and pineapple. The mineral [...]


Burgundy for (softly-spoken) heroes

Nuits is slightly earthier, more meaty and generally butch than wines from my favourite Burgundy villages. However, a good example will still have elegance and balance, and this is a terribly good example. Nuits St Georges Premier Cru Vaucrains 2002, Robert Chevillon A heroic nose, exploding with ripe fruit, earth and spicy-richness. There is plenty [...]


Better than the last

Much better than the last bottle of white Burgundy I had to fight my way through. Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru La Garenne 2002, Chateau de Puligny-Montrachet The nose is very full, concentrated with a lot of floral character. There is something almost herbal about the nose. The palate is rich and concentrated, again really floral. Nice [...]


Not only do I tend to land on my feet…

… but someone usually hands me a glass of something good once I’ve got my breath back. Oh yes, oh yes, it is another offering from Morey St Denis, not my favourite producer there (which is Domaine Dujac), but as , a damned good producer. Morey St. Denis Premier Cru Les Loups 1999, Domaine des [...]


Not a tasting note

This is not going to be a tasting note, it is going to be a rant. Partly because I feel so personally offended by this wine, but largely because I have been obliged to drink half a bottle of the booze-tastic horror. Macon Villages Cuvée Tradition E. J. Thévenet Domaine de la Bongran, Jean Thévenet [...]


I give him meat. Good meat!

I’ve had a tube pulled out of my stomach today, that had been there for 24 hours. I need something manly and heroic to charge me with strength once again. Collioure Clos du Moulin 2001, Domaine Mas Blanc A rare wine from the South-West of France, the region that makes the whacked-out and crazy Banyuls [...]


Much more like it

I was so disappointed by the Leeuwin Estate Shiraz I decided to open something I knew would be good. Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru 2002, Domaine des Lambrays I have a bit of a thing for Grand Cru Morey St. Denis wines, especially those of the perfumed and elegant style. Clos des Lambrays is more [...]


A Grande return

Moving house and being in hospital have kept me away from the internet for a while, but I return with a review of a wine with grand pretensions. Laurent Perrier la Grande Siecle La Cuvée I remember having an excellent bottle of this about five years ago; I recall the smoothness of the mousse and [...]