Going into most wine shops is to be assaulted with a torrent of the well-made but utterly dreary and unmemorable dross that floods the wine world at the moment. I don’t give a tinkers cuss about all those weird appellations from Southern France, Chile or the Cook Islands – they are all the same and [...]
Sleep has been avoiding me of late. Perhaps it is has noticed the staggeringly lurid spot I have on my nose and so thinks I am a witch and might put a hex on it. Whatever the reason, I am feeling distinctly spent and shagged out after another night awake. Consequently, I think it only [...]
I’ve been away from Chinon for too long. My chum Jeremy once opened some 20 year old stuff and it was utterly delicious: light, ethereal, and very, very pretty. My bottles have never lasted that long, alas. I heard though the usual channels that Monsieur B makes great wines, so I thought I’d try one [...]
Beyond Sancerre, I don’t have much time for pure Sauvignon Blanc. Beyond Crochet’s sometimes refreshing, sometimes downright bonkers offerings and Jean-Laurent Vacheron’s ambrosial, intellect-engaging, drool-provoking wines I really don’t have that much time for Sancerre either. But then, there is Cotat. He wants you to age his wine, which is not a commonly held view [...]
As I lack a comprehensive cellar laid down by wine-loving parents I do not try properly mature wines as often as I would like. Consequently, when Guy and Peter came around on Tuesday night for a sedate blind-tasting session it was quite a treat to try a couple of wines that were definitely ripe for [...]
Last night the Elitistreview team hosted Peter from Hand-Picked Burgundy and ‘The Kid’ Peter of international consulting fame; we drank extraordinarily well. The only let-down of the night was that a bottle of Lafon Volnay Clos des Chenes was totally corked. I really love Lafon reds so this was a pain, but HPB Peter had [...]
It seems Hawksmoor is our favourite restaurant in London at the moment; it is certainly London’s best meat restaurant. They indubitably delivered the goods when celebrating Non-Stinky Jeff’s birthday, providing wonderful bits of grilled animal. I recommend Tamworth belly ribs followed by a hilariously rare sirloin steak with two fried eggs, bone marrow and macaroni [...]
We tasted this . I said I’d like to come back to it in 5-10 years but the partner has popped his bottle after merely four; it has developed. In the right hands (and ‘Le Homme’ Vacheron has the right hands, he’s worked at DRC) and the right places Pinot Noir is what does it [...]
I have a lot of happy memories of Huet Premier Trie wines from the late eighties and early nineties, this just doesn’t seem to live up to those memories. Vouvray Moelleux Premier Trie ‘Clos du Bourg’ 2005, Domaine Huet OK, sulphur may be varietal character for Chenin Blanc, but this is really preservative-tastic. If we [...]
We are aware that Cabernet Sauvignon is rubbish apart from those made by a select handful of people (Diana Seysses (at Snowden in California), Tim Adams and Mr Moss Wood), so how about Cabernet Franc? I’ve had some good CabFranc wines before, but never one claiming to be 15% as this does. It certainly is [...]
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