Wine » France » Loire


Dissolute drinking at the Kyoto Kitchen

Last night the Elitistreview boys had a field-trip to Winchester’s Kyoto Kitchen to dine and drink with Simon and Gordon, from Stone, Vine and Sun, and Susie and Peter, Saturday Kitchen’s Masters of Wine. I have a lot to write about covering just the wines, so I shall only briefly talk about the food. A […]

Chinon Clos de la Roche 2009 from Wilfrid Rousse

The best Chinon in decades

The real reason I could only afford two bottles for my cheap summer wine piece is because I purchased a proper wine as well. We prefer expensive wines, eh? For the record, this is £18.50 from Stone, Vine and Sun and it’s a steal at that price. I have a reasonable amount of time for […]


Two cheap wines for summer

Last time I was on vast quantities of codeine I wrote this hilarious article about cheap wine. Well, as those who’ve followed my whining on Twitter will know, I’ve knackered my back and I’m on vast quantities of codeine again. Consequently, I’m writing about cheap wine again. There are some differences. Firstly, I got these […]

Huet Vouvray Petillant 2007 front label

Not one of the innumerable piss-boring wines encountered with depressing regularity

Going into most wine shops is to be assaulted with a torrent of the well-made but utterly dreary and unmemorable dross that floods the wine world at the moment. I don’t give a tinkers cuss about all those weird appellations from Southern France, Chile or the Cook Islands – they are all the same and […]

Chinon La Croix Boissee 2007 by Bernard Baudry

Breakfast Chinon

Sleep has been avoiding me of late. Perhaps it is has noticed the staggeringly lurid spot I have on my nose and so thinks I am a witch and might put a hex on it. Whatever the reason, I am feeling distinctly spent and shagged out after another night awake. Consequently, I think it only […]

Chinon 2009, Domaine Bernard Baudry

Bernard Baudry – neither boring nor bawdy

I’ve been away from Chinon for too long. My chum Jeremy once opened some 20 year old stuff and it was utterly delicious: light, ethereal, and very, very pretty. My bottles have never lasted that long, alas. I heard though the usual channels that Monsieur B makes great wines, so I thought I’d try one […]

Sancerre 'La Grande Cote' 2004, Francois Cotat

Frighteningly sulphurous Sancerre and fully mature Puligny – final words and a poll

Beyond Sancerre, I don’t have much time for pure Sauvignon Blanc. Beyond Crochet’s sometimes refreshing, sometimes downright bonkers offerings and Jean-Laurent Vacheron’s ambrosial, intellect-engaging, drool-provoking wines I really don’t have that much time for Sancerre either. But then, there is Cotat. He wants you to age his wine, which is not a commonly held view […]

Guy modelling Crozes-Hermitage 1983

Mature Crozes-Hermitage, unfeasibly good Rioja, Chambolle-Musigny and red Sancerre

As I lack a comprehensive cellar laid down by wine-loving parents I do not try properly mature wines as often as I would like. Consequently, when Guy and Peter came around on Tuesday night for a sedate blind-tasting session it was quite a treat to try a couple of wines that were definitely ripe for […]

Hermitage 1996, Domaine J-L Chave

Hilariously fine drinking with two Peters

Last night the Elitistreview team hosted Peter from Hand-Picked Burgundy and ‘The Kid’ Peter of international consulting fame; we drank extraordinarily well. The only let-down of the night was that a bottle of Lafon Volnay Clos des Chenes was totally corked. I really love Lafon reds so this was a pain, but HPB Peter had […]


General drinking for Non-Stinky Jeff’s birthday!

It seems Hawksmoor is our favourite restaurant in London at the moment; it is certainly London’s best meat restaurant. They indubitably delivered the goods when celebrating Non-Stinky Jeff’s birthday, providing wonderful bits of grilled animal. I recommend Tamworth belly ribs followed by a hilariously rare sirloin steak with two fried eggs, bone marrow and macaroni […]

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