Wine » France » Chablis

The Youth of Bacchus

40th birthday wine poll

Given my youthful visage and playful attitude you may be surprised I was born almost forty years ago; my birthday party is in November. It’ll be a quiet little affair with a few select friends whom I like, nay, love deeply and want to celebrate with that one day a year one gets old on. […]


Toast the teddy with Trimbach Riesling Clos St Hune Vendanges Tardives 1989

Delicate and dense

On Friday we were happy to host at Elitistreview Towers a friend, Mr Greg the plastic surgeon, I’ve know for 26 years – we were at Oundle School together. Apart from my brother, he’s the only chap I was at that school with that I’m still in contact with. His sadly deceased father left Greg a […]


Chablis 'Vignoble de Vaulorent' 2007, Fevre

Best wine over Christmas

Back in 2010 I had the greatest Chablis of my life: Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume ‘Vignoble de Vaulorent’ 2007 from Fevre. I had a bottle on Christmas eve and it remains the greatest Chablis I’ve tried in my life. My comments in the previous note still pretty much apply, only this was more complex and […]


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Breathe, godamit! Breathe!

Firstly, let me apologise for the lack of posts recently. I’ve started psychotherapy and that has given me a lot to think about, and I don’t feel like getting lubricated to do that thinking. Still, the psychotherapy should be useful so hopefully I’ll be less unhinged on here when it’s over. To wine! 2010 was […]


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Beezer Burgundy in London

Yesterday Dani and I travelled into London to meet James, Katie and Peter for a spot of delicious lunch and a bit of incredibly fine Burgundy. Every wine delivered all we could ask of it. Peter was particularly pleased that after the two red wines I asked James if he might have a bottle of […]


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Dinner at casa Percival

We recently had the wonderful pleasure of dinner with Bronwen and Francis Percival, food and cheese gods of London, Burgundy and beyond. They cooked amazing food and, fitting Bronwen’s role as head cheese buyer for Neal’s Yard Dairy, truly brilliant cheese. I cannot remember the myriad of cheeses we tried, but I’ll start off with […]


Our host Peter Sidebotham with Ravenneau Grand Cru 2004

Burgundy at La Trompette

Yesterday I had a great meal at La Trompette in Chiswick. The food was marvellous, the company brilliant, but sadly the red Burgundies we took along were extremely disappointing. This was only my second meal at La Trompette and based on the food and highly interesting wine list it is a shame I have not […]


Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote Bouguerots 2005

The élan and the enormity

I’ve said it loads of times: Chablis is the bleeding edge of interesting Chardonnay. This Grand Cru from Fevre is in an intermediate stage of development, but it thrills and excites me with its winning personality, incredible interest, and baroque brilliance. It’s lovely, but slightly bonkers. I’ve heard complaints about premature oxidation in Fevre Chablis […]


Two Premier Cru Chambolle-Musignys

A fun-tastic Schaefer Riesling, stunning Raveneau Chablis and some red Burgundies

Extravagant Mosel Riesling, fervid Chablis with some red Burgundy to follow up sounds like an experience every lover of good times would revel in. However, as I rarely travel on the London Underground at rush hour and that the resultant proximity to more and smellier people than even Berlusconi invites to his bunga bunga sex […]


Chablis Grand Cru les Clos 2005, Jean-Paul and Benoit Droin

Good Chablis but better exists

I love Chablis. As I have often said, it is the most thrilling expression of raw Chardonnay. With its nervy tension of acid, fruit and minerality Chablis can approach Riesling in the fulgurating white wine idiom, although I will admit its aromas usually have a greater resemblance to Maconnais whites or very refined Meursault. Although, […]

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