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Frederic Esmonin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2009

Utterly lovely minimalism

Gevrey-Chambertin is the home of the most modern, international-styled Burgundies. Dark colours, big, bold tannins, high alcohol levels, usually a lot of new oak too. If you like your Burgundy to taste like some Californian woody syrup, you could do worse than buy yourself a Gevery-Chambertin. Not from Frederic Esmonin, though! He is one of […]


Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2007 from de Montille

Not what it needed where it needed it

When it comes to de Montille wines, historically the real bum-biters were the Volnays and Pommards. Yes, now they have expanded their range the Nuits Aux Thorey and Vosne Malconsorts (and especially their La Tache-cuvée) are very good; however the Pommards and Volnays will always have a special place in my heart. It is not […]


Corton Les Renards 2009 Ligier Belaire

Christ, lovely Corton!

Sometimes I wonder why I buy Corton; it is so often thin, lean and green. I suppose that is why I now only buy it in super-ripe vintages. Even then it rarely seems worthy of Grand Cru status. Ripe vintages, of course, are wildly expensive: especially if you buy from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault is big […]


The Editor enjoing Morey Les Loups 2007

Divine dissolution

Wines like the two I report on below make you seriously consider that red Burgundy could be a far more wonderful experience than even German Riesling. These two may be a shade less cerebral than top German Riesling, but cripes they deliver a staggering amount of raw, visceral pleasure! For those who don’t know Joblot’s […]


De Montille Beaune Sizies

De Montille Beaune Sizies

Are not de Montille labels incredibly cool? Even when they say ‘Beaune’ on them, which are by far their least flash wines. Not that they are bad, you understand. It is just that not so long as ago a poor lunatic who never had a any time off from the occupation forced upon him could […]


Davy pouring a little slug

2014 Red Burgundy from Clark Foyster

The Clark Foyster Burgundy 2014 en primeur tasting is the highlight of the tasting season. They have a small but stunningly good selection of producers in their portfolio. Even better, the owners of Clark Foyster Wines, Isabelle Clark and Lance Foyster, do not gouge their customers even though they sell such flash kit; there is usually […]


20151008_152417_HDR

A perverted little gathering to indulge our fine wine fetish

Lunch yesterday stretched our fine wine fetishes from distinctly lovely experiences to downright perverted twistedness. Is not that what fine wine collecting and drinking really is? An intense perversion practised by fetishists? That in no way means that it is bad, just that it is perverted. What I am suggesting is that if you are […]


Bruless-2012-Confuron-Gindre-label

Super Squirrel Vosne

Confuron-Gindre are one of my newer discoveries – and what a discovery they are! I have not had a bad wine from them. Even their Bourgogne Rouge is delicious (when you have it at an email primeur tasting, that is). They make an excellent example of this, one of my favourite Vosne Premier Crus. It […]


Drinking-Dujac-Bonnes-Mares-2005

Elitistreview – one decade on

Today marks a decade of this illustrious organ. Wow! During that time I have posted 1,431 articles, which is an average of 2.8 per week. Last year or so might have brought down that average, but never mind. 1,431 articles is still one hell of a lot of fine wine, excellent meals, ceramics and psychotic […]


Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2005

I am still alive, not so this wine

I must start with an apology. I apologise for not writing any Elitistreview posts for far too long; unsurprisingly I have an excuse. Two months ago I had a fit and collapsed into a quivering heap on the floor right on top of my left foot and ankle. I totally buggered them. So for the last […]

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