Wine » France

Frederic Esmonin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2009

Utterly lovely minimalism

Gevrey-Chambertin is the home of the most modern, international-styled Burgundies. Dark colours, big, bold tannins, high alcohol levels, usually a lot of new oak too. If you like your Burgundy to taste like some Californian woody syrup, you could do worse than buy yourself a Gevery-Chambertin. Not from Frederic Esmonin, though! He is one of […]


Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2007 from de Montille

Not what it needed where it needed it

When it comes to de Montille wines, historically the real bum-biters were the Volnays and Pommards. Yes, now they have expanded their range the Nuits Aux Thorey and Vosne Malconsorts (and especially their La Tache-cuvée) are very good; however the Pommards and Volnays will always have a special place in my heart. It is not […]


Corton Les Renards 2009 Ligier Belaire

Christ, lovely Corton!

Sometimes I wonder why I buy Corton; it is so often thin, lean and green. I suppose that is why I now only buy it in super-ripe vintages. Even then it rarely seems worthy of Grand Cru status. Ripe vintages, of course, are wildly expensive: especially if you buy from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault is big […]


Hawksmoor menu

Hawksmoor three years on

On Monday night we returned, with our excellent friend Ricard, to Hawksmoor Spitalfields in London for the first time in three years. There was a time where nearly 10% of this blog consisted of articles about Hawksmoor or the wines we drank there. Our visit conclusively proved it was worth such heavy coverage – going […]


Colombier Hermitage Blanc 2007 label

Stunning Colombier Hermitage Blanc

Hermitage Blanc. Why? Just why? It is often more expensive than its red sibling, whilst not being a conventionally nice drink. It has an awfully unpredictable ageing profile, that makes them almost impossible to know when to open. There is usually bugger all acidity to them, making them seem like a frumpy schoolgirl looking sulky […]


The Editor enjoing Morey Les Loups 2007

Divine dissolution

Wines like the two I report on below make you seriously consider that red Burgundy could be a far more wonderful experience than even German Riesling. These two may be a shade less cerebral than top German Riesling, but cripes they deliver a staggering amount of raw, visceral pleasure! For those who don’t know Joblot’s […]


De Montille Beaune Sizies

De Montille Beaune Sizies

Are not de Montille labels incredibly cool? Even when they say ‘Beaune’ on them, which are by far their least flash wines. Not that they are bad, you understand. It is just that not so long as ago a poor lunatic who never had a any time off from the occupation forced upon him could […]


Davy pouring a little slug

2014 Red Burgundy from Clark Foyster

The Clark Foyster Burgundy 2014 en primeur tasting is the highlight of the tasting season. They have a small but stunningly good selection of producers in their portfolio. Even better, the owners of Clark Foyster Wines, Isabelle Clark and Lance Foyster, do not gouge their customers even though they sell such flash kit; there is usually […]


Calendar

In remembrance of times past

What would you most like a friend to bring around for a luncheon wine? We cannot, nor would we want to, drink Richebourg every day; but that does not mean we should miss out on quality, which of course exists at every level. As well as quality it is nice if one can drink something […]


Colombier Hermitage 2008

A bit of Broadbenting

I was going to take a bottle of this to a chum’s place in a couple of weeks. Would you believe it? He has the temerity to ask me to bring something else?!? I think that is the first time someone has rejected one of my wines! As vengeance I will take something else, but […]