Wine » France

Dani modelling eggs

Hyden Organics Scotch eggs and Morey

Recently I have been eating the best sausages I have ever encountered, from Hyden Organics. I was very pleased to score some of the sausage meat and some of their eggs so Dani could create cracking Hyden Organics Scotch eggs. They were topping. When we noshed on these orbs we had a simply spiffing bottle [...]


Hawksmoor, wine and writers

Hawksmoor, wine and writers

The Editor and I travelled into The Big Smoke to meet Swedish wine writer Erica Landin in Hawksmoor Spitalfields earlier today. She seemed impressed by our capacity to eat, the general pricing policies of London and the specific pricing policy of Hawksmoor. Fair enough. Erica’s experience of wine journalism in Sweden is somewhat different to [...]


Guy should not be looking so happy

Lunch with Guy and Marie-Pierre – could try harder

On Sunday we had great fun hosting Guy Dennis and his fiancée Marie-Pierre. It was great that Guy had found a partner so charming and generally lovely. Shame only one of the other four things Guy brought along was any good. The meal was a great success (once again) for the meat of Woodlands Jersey [...]


Ricard with Cuvee 735

Pleasures of the flesh with Ricard and Dani

The charming Ricard Sariola joined Dani and I to celebrate St George’s day with a wing rib of beef. Roast beef is about as English as things get and so am I! We also tasted Riesling, Burgundy and a selection of heroic Mourvedres. Truly we are serious chaps to undertake such an engagement for Monday [...]


Our host Peter Sidebotham with Ravenneau Grand Cru 2004

Burgundy at La Trompette

Yesterday I had a great meal at La Trompette in Chiswick. The food was marvellous, the company brilliant, but sadly the red Burgundies we took along were extremely disappointing. This was only my second meal at La Trompette and based on the food and highly interesting wine list it is a shame I have not [...]


Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote Bouguerots 2005

The élan and the enormity

I’ve said it loads of times: Chablis is the bleeding edge of interesting Chardonnay. This Grand Cru from Fevre is in an intermediate stage of development, but it thrills and excites me with its winning personality, incredible interest, and baroque brilliance. It’s lovely, but slightly bonkers. I’ve heard complaints about premature oxidation in Fevre Chablis [...]


Alfred Gratien Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2007

Brilliant fizz with lunch

I promised myself a bottle of Champagne to celebrate surviving going under the knife. As I know my GP reads this site I should add I did not open this bottle until over 48 hours after my operation. I definitely did not have any alcohol in that 48 hours, oh no… No Pimms, no G&Ts, [...]


Huet Vouvray Petillant 2007 front label

Not one of the innumerable piss-boring wines encountered with depressing regularity

Going into most wine shops is to be assaulted with a torrent of the well-made but utterly dreary and unmemorable dross that floods the wine world at the moment. I don’t give a tinkers cuss about all those weird appellations from Southern France, Chile or the Cook Islands – they are all the same and [...]


Gevrey, steak and Kisu

Burly Burgundy

Alain Burguet was one of the very first Burgundy producers I visited as an undergraduate. I’m pleased I was educated enough to like his wines; they are still good. His sons may have largely taken over, allowing him to dedicate his life to hunting, but the impressive, manly house style remains. This old vines cuvee [...]


Simon Taylor with Balthazar Cornas 2001

Drinking with Stone, Vine and Sun

Being fairly new to the Winchester area it is good to make new friends. Consequently, on Monday night we enjoyed going the The Old Forge in Otterbourne to go drinking with Stone, Vine and Sun’s Simon Taylor and Gordon Coates. They are the local serious wine merchant and based upon what we enjoyed together I [...]