Wine » France

Dinner

Dinner

The other day I had one of the greatest meals of my life. A dinner marked by profundity of flavour in food and wine. If I may, I will enlighten you about the three core ingredients that made it such a downright enjoyable experience. Of their type, there’s little better easily available. I start with [...]


de Montille Volnay Champans 2002

Extreme elegance

Continuing my report on when Mr Greg came for lunch I’ll tell you about a couple of stunners. Our main course was a leg of Oxford Sandy and Black pork from Beechcroft Direct whose pigs have provided many of my most profound pork pleasures. Perhaps, my faithful readers, you will be unsurprised to learn I [...]


Toast the teddy with Trimbach Riesling Clos St Hune Vendanges Tardives 1989

Delicate and dense

On Friday we were happy to host at Elitistreview Towers a friend, Mr Greg the plastic surgeon, I’ve know for 26 years – we were at Oundle School together. Apart from my brother, he’s the only chap I was at that school with that I’m still in contact with. His sadly deceased father left Greg a [...]


Domaine Colombier Hermitage 2008

I can feel hairs growing on bits of me

Hermitage is traditionally the manliest wine in France and, as The Editor and I are at least nominally men (superannuated toddlers, more like!) we thought it would make appropriate drinking for lunch. No food, you see? This is extreme dieting. One sniff of this shows it to be deeply pulsingly manly, so much so I [...]


Coume del Mas Schistes 2011

I hate this wine

In a recent tasting note I said I bloody hate Grenache-based wines – they are normally too heavy, boozy and hard work. Given this, my excellent chum Lance Foyster, a wine merchant I’ve known for 20 years, decided to send me this bottle of 14.5% Grenache. I can only imagine he did this to continue [...]


Crozes-Hermitage Le Rouvre 2007 by Yann Chave

Syrah-iously better

The last bottle of Rhone wine I had was totally repulsive. Since this bottle was handily lying next to the bed I thought I would take advantage of the convenience factor and see if that also was a portent of good fortune. It was! This wine is far better than the crap Courbis Cornas and, [...]


Banyuls Cuvee Mediterranee 2005

This is how to do Grenache!

I really don’t have much time for Grenache-based wines. They are usually soupily boozed-up, with little real refinement or complexity. They are just so often fruit and alcohol bombs and that sort of thing bores the poo out of me. I bloody hate them. So if you are obliged, by previous generations’ planting habits, to make [...]


Cornas La Sabrotte 2005 Domaine Courbis

Some Syrah was walking in the deep, dark wood…

I’ve never really got on with wines from Domaine Courbis, so when I suddenly found myself standing in front of the wine fridge, out of the blue, holding this bottle I not only pondered how I got there, but I was veritably vexed how it had infiltrated my sancto sanctorum. It cannot have been left [...]


Ben's Canteen

Fine wine frolics at Ben’s Canteen

I hope you will forgive me if this is not my longest or most coherent article, things got a bit quaquaversal in the early hours of this morning. However, yesterday evening was lavishly loaded with laughs and it might return a bit of order to my mind to try and report on the wizard walrus experience [...]


Domaine Chandon de Briailles Saigny-les-Beaune Premier Cru Lavieres 2009

Savigny sanity strategies

Long time readers will know the 24th of January is when I hide most of the day in bed and write a miserable tasting note that wouldn’t fool a deaf and blind whelk into thinking I’m enjoying myself. This is because today is the anniversary of me first slashing my wrists in the bath and [...]