Wine » France

Cornas Chaillot 2009 Franck Balthazar

Competently classy Cornas

When you have a really cracking piece of Beechcroft Direct Farm top rump to roast what do you drink with it? We have done Hermitage a bit much recently, and it is a bit too much of a chilly evening to eat rare beef and drink Hermitage naked. Syrah is a definite option and it […]


Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2012

Yarra Valley Pinot and Bourgogne Rouge

With our simple but delicious lunch of M&S BBQ Hickory Steak Pizza we popped a bottle of Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2012. Not the grandest wine in the world, but it was quite lovely and served to illustrate an instructive point. I shall start with my chum Mac’s wine. It was Pinot of […]


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Migoua 1999

I used to drink Domaine Tempier Bandol all the time. There was a shop in Oxford that sold La Migoua and La Tourtine 1990 for a tenner a bottle – how could I refuse? The aim was always to age it, but most bottles only stayed unpopped for a few days. I did manage to […]


Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2005

I am still alive, not so this wine

I must start with an apology. I apologise for not writing any Elitistreview posts for far too long; unsurprisingly I have an excuse. Two months ago I had a fit and collapsed into a quivering heap on the floor right on top of my left foot and ankle. I totally buggered them. So for the last […]


Jouan Clos-Saint-Denis 2012

Henri Jouan Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2012

On Friday night we had a little dinner party with our friend Christian who had come all the way from Switzerland to see us (possibly). We drank many really delicious wines and one that was probably the best young red Burgundy that I have owned (and then drank). I love Clos-Saint-Denis. It is simply gorgeous. […]


Champy Beaune aux Cras

Elitistreview is nine!

Elitistreview is nine years old today. There has been sadness, joy, ecstasy, psychosis, reports from the loony bin and one hell of a lot of Burgundy. I started off with a note on a Burgundy from a very grand producer and nine years later I’m still drinking Burgundy. Alas, today I cannot afford anything as aureate […]


Rene Engel Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru 1998

Live in the moment

The supreme aesthetic experience is something that is sadly meaningless to a large proportion of the population. Sad it is because the visceral, emotional, intellectual thrills that can penetrate your psyche and infuse your whole body, taking it to a different plane of existence, are so profound they improve and enhance our lives, our view […]


Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Gaby 2010

Affordable, beguiling Crozes

These days there are basically two categories of Crozes-Hermitage. Firstly, are the pretend Hermitages: think the Graillot clan, Yann Chave La Rouve, Nicolas Jaboulet’s new(-ish) enterprise and a handful of others. These are smaller versions of the big, muscular, strapping wines of the great Hermitage hill (that is surrounded by the Crozes-Hermitage region). Then there […]


Yann Chave Hermitage 2009

Beef and Hermitage

Minor Hermitage producers have a hard time. Without plots of land from climats all over the great hill it is difficult to get the necessary balance of structure and fruit to produce a great wine that will age well. I think Domaine Colombier is a definite exception to this rule; Yann Chave suffers from it […]


Domaine Arlaud Cremant de Bourgogne

Quickie: Domaine Arlaud Cremant de Bourgogne

Cremant de Bourgogne is invariably consumed by Germans and Dutch. Since the Germans all have beards and identify themselves as ‘gender-fluid pansexual furry’ and the Dutch are all monomaniacal about speed skating, that is a sad fate for a wine from Burgundy. To be honest, most Cremant deserves such a hideous end, the vast majority […]