Wine » France

Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Gaby 2010

Affordable, beguiling Crozes

These days there are basically two categories of Crozes-Hermitage. Firstly, are the pretend Hermitages: think the Graillot clan, Yann Chave La Rouve, Nicolas Jaboulet’s new(-ish) enterprise and a handful of others. These are smaller versions of the big, muscular, strapping wines of the great Hermitage hill (that is surrounded by the Crozes-Hermitage region). Then there […]


Yann Chave Hermitage 2009

Beef and Hermitage

Minor Hermitage producers have a hard time. Without plots of land from climats all over the great hill it is difficult to get the necessary balance of structure and fruit to produce a great wine that will age well. I think Domaine Colombier is a definite exception to this rule; Yann Chave suffers from it […]


Domaine Arlaud Cremant de Bourgogne

Quickie: Domaine Arlaud Cremant de Bourgogne

Cremant de Bourgogne is invariably consumed by Germans and Dutch. Since the Germans all have beards and identify themselves as ‘gender-fluid pansexual furry’ and the Dutch are all monomaniacal about speed skating, that is a sad fate for a wine from Burgundy. To be honest, most Cremant deserves such a hideous end, the vast majority […]


Drouhin Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Clos Sorbe 2011

Drouhin Morey Clos Sorbe, have they always been this good?

One of the things about knowing lots of growers in Burgundy is one can get a little sniffy about the negociants. You start thinking things like, without direct control in the vineyards they cannot keep the quality up. Then some vicious bastard will open lots of Dominique Laurent wines for you and you become convinced […]


Domaine Henri Jouan Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru

2012 red Burgundy at Clark Foyster Wines, the best of the best

2012 red Burgundy is excellent. A lot of wines are probably truly great. However, the appalling weather conditions during the growing season mean that the volumes of these complex, structured, intense wines are sadly miniscule. Of course, this means that prices have gone up. Again. Bugger! Luckily, for us, Clark Foyster Wines, who put on […]


Colombier Hermitage 2007

Quickie: Colombier Hermitage 2007

Whilst I was in hospital a couple of weeks ago I was repeatedly and sternly warned that I should watch my boozing now I have type 1 diabetes. Obviously I thought, “Tish, pish and bollocks to that!”. However, further research into the effects alcohol can have on diabetics did perturb me a little, so I […]


Domaine Arlaud Morey-St-Denis 1er Cru Millandes 2006

Earthy and meaty

Domaine Arlaud wines were a stunning success at my third birthday party. Now I cannot deny I may have formed this opinion because I drank an awful lot of the two Grand Cru magnums going around, but I’m told by people who had the best Premier Cru (Ruchots) from a top village (Morey-Saint-Denis) that it […]


Lignier-Michelot Chambolle-Musigny 2009

2009 Burgundy is SO lovely

This bottle was sent to me by my lovely friend Sean who felt I needed cheering up when I was psychotic, depressed and suicidal a month or so back. What he didn’t know was the one of the drugs I was prescribed back then makes people psychotic and suicidal when they drink even if they […]


The Youth of Bacchus

40th birthday wine poll

Given my youthful visage and playful attitude you may be surprised I was born almost forty years ago; my birthday party is in November. It’ll be a quiet little affair with a few select friends whom I like, nay, love deeply and want to celebrate with that one day a year one gets old on. […]


Gevrey-Chambertin 'Aux Echezeaux' 2011, Henri Jouan

Please, be gentle with me…

My exhortation in the title is both a reference to how I remember this wine caressing me on my last taste of it and also a plea regarding the hyper-critical faculties I know Elitistreview readers render patent when assaying this organ. I arrogate your good favour when you read this post purely because I am […]