Wine » Austria

Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume 'Vignoble de Vaulorent' 2005, Domaine William Fevre

Delicious Chablis and tooth-rottingly sweet Austrian Trockenbeerenauslese

Chablis can be such a great wine – when they sing they are expressions of Chardonnay at its purest and most thrilling. 2005 was a great vintage and tonight’s example comes from a great vineyard and is made by one of the hottest producers on the Chablis-porn scene


Riesling 2005, Mac Forbes

Two Mac Forbes wonders and a tired Austrian Ausbruch

At the moment no one in Australian is making better Riesling or Pinot Noir than Mac Forbes. A real treat to try these two. Bit of a shame the Lang sweetie was past it.

Riesling 2005, Mac Forbes
I would be failing you, my dear reader, if I did not admit to there being a hint of sulphury swimming pools about this nose


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My first Blaufrankisch in a while

When we were putting together our affordable selection of wines for drinking this stood out as being worth snapping up thanks to recommendations from both Eric Asimov and that top geezer . Elegant and terroir specific, we are told.

Blaufrankisch ‘Eisenberg’ 2007, Uwe Schiefer
A lovely nose of fresh plum fruit, not in any way overblown or heavy, and this fruit


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Some thoughts on Austrian Blaufrankisch (and a rant about Pinot)

Eric Asimov of the New York Times has a brief but interesting report on some Austrian Blaufrankisch wines. He makes the very good point, which I agree with whole-heartedly, that Blaufrankisch is best when made in a lighter, more elegant style, rather than a super-ripe, super-extracted, ‘international’ style


This wine is totally fascinating

I remember, many years ago, an Austrian wine tasting in which Gruner Veltliner was compared to Chardonnay from other countries. I didn’t think that it was really a reasonable comparison, as I thought GruV had more in common with Riesling


Full-bodied fun

I’ve enjoyed the last couple of Prager wines, so when I saw this in Fortnum’s I thought it well worth a try.

Riesling Smaragd “Stenriegl” 2006, Prager
A highly perfumed nose of wonderful apricot and peach aromas. There is a strong earthiness to this wine, that grounds its more expressive, floral side. This is perfectly balanced


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A fine bottle of Riesling

This is clearly a glass of class.

Riesling Smaragd “Achleiten” 2005, Weingut PragerA very pure nose of lemon fruit and stony minerality; this smells subtle and beautiful. The fruit is perfectly ripe and just lovely. Serious complexity here. Oddly for an Austrian wine this doesn’t smell of white pepper; I’d be hard pressed to tell this was Austrian if I was presented it blind


General drinking for lunch yesterday

A few good things yesterday. I am afraid I got rather drunk so notes will be brief. The Clos St. Hune was most disappointing.

Grande Annee 1996, BollingerPerfectly balanced on the edge of maturity and freshness. Really good fruit and acidity with a fine mousse. This was excellent and in top condition. Even though this had mature tones I am in no rush to drink my last bottle


Not much wine over the weekend

I was in Amsterdam over the weekend, so perilously little wine was consumed. However, it was my birthday on Thursday and at the ‘large-formats’ party we held we popped a magnum of Riesling Singerriedel 2004 from Hirtzberger. This was quite delicious, quite large-scale but with good acidity. It had a typically Austrian white pepper aroma to it as well as late harvest Riesling characteristics


A few things to drink

I hate to say it, but wine is still not really combating my unhappiness. It is certainly nice to drink, but it doesn’t transport me to another place as once it did. I need to get my medication sorted out.

Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill 1995, Pol RogerA dense nose, dominated by Pinot. It has a really nice digestive biscuit character to it

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