Wine » Austria

Grassl Barnreiser 2006

Not a punishment wine

When you see on the label of an Austrian wine that it has Cabernet in it (even if diluted with Zweigelt and Merlot) and it is 14.5% you think “Jesus Christ! This is going to punish me and punish me hard!” Add in that it is a 2006 so eight years old at this point […]


Austrian wine drinkers prepare to start combat!

An awfully agreeable Austrian

Austrian wines… Phew! One thing is sure and that is that the pork in cream sauce-noshers like them as heroically proportioned as their lunch servings. Certainly with whites, delicate, subtle grape varieties like Riesling are all too often tied up in piano wire until they obey orders and get up to unfortunate levels of ripeness […]


Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibner Berg 2001, FX Pichler

Confused GruV with roast chicken

When deciding on a wine to pop with roast chicken my thoughts immediately turn to white Burgundy. However, Editor Daniel suggested we try something different so I looked through the wine cupboard and found a bottle of Gruner Veltliner from a really spiffy producer – we expected serious interest value. It has been a while […]


Lance Foyster and David have good taste in shirts

Clark Foyster Wines portfolio tasting – the bleeding edge of vinous cool

When I received the list of wines to be shown at the Clark Foyster portfolio tasting I wished I had a hermetically sealed room to hide in to avoid contracting an illness that would spoil my enjoyment. The collection of ultra-hip offerings from Austria, Australia, Burgundy and elsewhere would delight drinkers far more voguish than […]


Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume 'Vignoble de Vaulorent' 2005, Domaine William Fevre

Delicious Chablis and tooth-rottingly sweet Austrian Trockenbeerenauslese

Chablis can be such a great wine – when they sing they are expressions of Chardonnay at its purest and most thrilling. 2005 was a great vintage and tonight’s example comes from a great vineyard and is made by one of the hottest producers on the Chablis-porn scene. I expect it to be tumescent with […]


Riesling 2005, Mac Forbes

Two Mac Forbes wonders and a tired Austrian Ausbruch

At the moment no one in Australian is making better Riesling or Pinot Noir than Mac Forbes. A real treat to try these two. Bit of a shame the Lang sweetie was past it. Riesling 2005, Mac Forbes I would be failing you, my dear reader, if I did not admit to there being a […]


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My first Blaufrankisch in a while

When we were putting together our affordable selection of wines for drinking this stood out as being worth snapping up thanks to recommendations from both Eric Asimov and that top geezer . Elegant and terroir specific, we are told. Blaufrankisch ‘Eisenberg’ 2007, Uwe Schiefer A lovely nose of fresh plum fruit, not in any way […]


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Some thoughts on Austrian Blaufrankisch (and a rant about Pinot)

Eric Asimov of the New York Times has a brief but interesting report on some Austrian Blaufrankisch wines. He makes the very good point, which I agree with whole-heartedly, that Blaufrankisch is best when made in a lighter, more elegant style, rather than a super-ripe, super-extracted, ‘international’ style. I don’t drink that much of the […]


This wine is totally fascinating

I remember, many years ago, an Austrian wine tasting in which Gruner Veltliner was compared to Chardonnay from other countries. I didn’t think that it was really a reasonable comparison, as I thought GruV had more in common with Riesling. When I try this wine I am not so sure I was right. Gruner Veltliner […]


Full-bodied fun

I’ve enjoyed the last couple of Prager wines, so when I saw this in Fortnum’s I thought it well worth a try. Riesling Smaragd “Stenriegl” 2006, Prager A highly perfumed nose of wonderful apricot and peach aromas. There is a strong earthiness to this wine, that grounds its more expressive, floral side. This is perfectly […]

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