Wine

de Montille Beaune 1er Cru Greves 2009

A bloody huge mouthful of Beaune

I feel a bit guilty opening this wine. Lovely, small-scale Beaune Premier Crus that, with their abundant fruit and easy charm, seem like they will drink best as soon as you get the case from your wine merchant. This is simply not true – well, it is slightly true in that they are delicious young […]


Frederic Esmonin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2009

Utterly lovely minimalism

Gevrey-Chambertin is the home of the most modern, international-styled Burgundies. Dark colours, big, bold tannins, high alcohol levels, usually a lot of new oak too. If you like your Burgundy to taste like some Californian woody syrup, you could do worse than buy yourself a Gevery-Chambertin. Not from Frederic Esmonin, though! He is one of […]


Biggio-Hamina Caroline Pinot Noir 2012

Biggio-Hamina Caroline Pinot manifestly expresses love

This is the last bottle I have from the six Todd Hamina sent me. He did send another bottle of this, that I opened with some friends who were eager to try it based on my rave reviews of his other wines. Alas, it was horribly corked. No such problems with this bottle, thank goodness. […]


Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds 2007 from de Montille

Not what it needed where it needed it

When it comes to de Montille wines, historically the real bum-biters were the Volnays and Pommards. Yes, now they have expanded their range the Nuits Aux Thorey and Vosne Malconsorts (and especially their La Tache-cuvée) are very good; however the Pommards and Volnays will always have a special place in my heart. It is not […]


Exton Park Vineyard

Christ! Excellent English fizz from Exton Park!

What a crying shame only one other person joined The Editor and I for the tasting of Exton Park fizz, the only indisputably fine English wines that I have ever tasted. The boss of Wine Utopia’s Winchester branch should hang their head in shame for failing to pack the shop with people eager to try […]


img_0059

What’s bright pink, smells divine and is shaped like a Burgundy bottle

A bottle of Biggio-Hamina Andreas Vineyard Gewüztraminer, of course! I am not terribly used to seeing colourless Burgundy bottles, even less so seeing them filled with bright pink wine – but I will try anything once, twice if I like it! The winemaker, the lovely Todd Hamina, told me that ‘this is an orange wine, […]


Corton Les Renards 2009 Ligier Belaire

Christ, lovely Corton!

Sometimes I wonder why I buy Corton; it is so often thin, lean and green. I suppose that is why I now only buy it in super-ripe vintages. Even then it rarely seems worthy of Grand Cru status. Ripe vintages, of course, are wildly expensive: especially if you buy from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault is big […]


Zenith Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 from Biggio-Hamnia

Hit me, Hamina, one more time!

This is the second of the wines that Todd Hamina sent for Team Elitistreview to try. He says it is about half whole clusters and 25% new oak. It was included in the sample case he sent me, he says, to give me an idea of where he is going with his wines. Bugger me, […]


Biggio-Hamina Youngberg Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

From Oregon with love

Sometimes really good things happen. In the early hours of the morning a few weeks ago I lamented on the loss of my wonderful red Burgundy collection, swiped from my (ex-)cellar based in Morey-Saint-Denis. A lovely Oregon winemaker, Toddy Hamina, asked if having some wine to review would cheer me up. I was so touched […]


Hawksmoor menu

Hawksmoor three years on

On Monday night we returned, with our excellent friend Ricard, to Hawksmoor Spitalfields in London for the first time in three years. There was a time where nearly 10% of this blog consisted of articles about Hawksmoor or the wines we drank there. Our visit conclusively proved it was worth such heavy coverage – going […]