Wine

The summer of Riesling

2013 German Riesling from Howard Ripley

2013 German Riesling is as impossible to summarise the intricacies of as is ‘War and Peace’. But to prove I am a clever sod I shall do it for both. 2013 German Rieslings captured the essence of their vineyards of origin like no other vintage I have known. War and Peace is a partly unintelligible, […]


Domaine du Colombier Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Gaby 2010

Affordable, beguiling Crozes

These days there are basically two categories of Crozes-Hermitage. Firstly, are the pretend Hermitages: think the Graillot clan, Yann Chave La Rouve, Nicolas Jaboulet’s new(-ish) enterprise and a handful of others. These are smaller versions of the big, muscular, strapping wines of the great Hermitage hill (that is surrounded by the Crozes-Hermitage region). Then there […]


Parker's Wine Buyer's Toss

The perversion that is scoring wine

People giving points to wine is admittedly such an easy target to destroy it is like going dynamite fishing in a barrel. Additionally, I am sure I have raged about it on Elitistreview before. However, a memory cropped up this morning that I thought was quite instructive, and it allows me to wallow in the […]


Yann Chave Hermitage 2009

Beef and Hermitage

Minor Hermitage producers have a hard time. Without plots of land from climats all over the great hill it is difficult to get the necessary balance of structure and fruit to produce a great wine that will age well. I think Domaine Colombier is a definite exception to this rule; Yann Chave suffers from it […]


2012 Schloss Lieser Kabinett Brauneberger Juffer label

Quench!

2012 German Riesling was roaringly successful for Kabinetts and Spatlesen. This may lead snobs and the hard of thinking to think this vintage was in some way a failure. Not a bit of it! When you drink a top Kabinett or Spatlese from 2012 you get incredible amounts of pleasure that should satisfy anyone. If […]


Grassl Barnreiser 2006

Not a punishment wine

When you see on the label of an Austrian wine that it has Cabernet in it (even if diluted with Zweigelt and Merlot) and it is 14.5% you think “Jesus Christ! This is going to punish me and punish me hard!” Add in that it is a 2006 so eight years old at this point […]


2012 Maximin Grunhauser Herrenberg Auslese 25

Red-hot nipple clamps

2012 German Riesling is great. It is very ripe with luxurious Kabinetts and Spatlesen bursting with ripe, rich fruit. There is plenty of acidity too. The wines fizz with vibrant life, burning through your tooth enamel and sending thrills of excitement through your body as they scold your stomach. Most of the 2012 German Rieslings […]


Pfluger Riesling Trocken 2013

A real flyer

Those of us who learned to taste German Riesling Trockens in the nineties and early noughties realised we should view them with fear and loathing. They were lean, harsh, acrid entities of pain and severity. I utterly hated them and vowed I would never say a good word about them. Clearly just to irritate me, […]


Domaine Arlaud Cremant de Bourgogne

Quickie: Domaine Arlaud Cremant de Bourgogne

Cremant de Bourgogne is invariably consumed by Germans and Dutch. Since the Germans all have beards and identify themselves as ‘gender-fluid pansexual furry’ and the Dutch are all monomaniacal about speed skating, that is a sad fate for a wine from Burgundy. To be honest, most Cremant deserves such a hideous end, the vast majority […]


Drouhin Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru Clos Sorbe 2011

Drouhin Morey Clos Sorbe, have they always been this good?

One of the things about knowing lots of growers in Burgundy is one can get a little sniffy about the negociants. You start thinking things like, without direct control in the vineyards they cannot keep the quality up. Then some vicious bastard will open lots of Dominique Laurent wines for you and you become convinced […]