An expensive day at Collect

If you are in London and you haven’t been to Collect yet, you need to get yourself over there this evening or tomorrow; it is wonderful. Clearly the best art fair I’ve ever been to, indeed better than it has been for years. However, the story is of the acquisition of another beautiful thing. We […]

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Breakfast at Fuzzy’s Grub

Daniel and my chum Keithy have been raving about the sandwiches at Fuzzy’s Grub for a while, so I was terribly pleased to be cruising past one of their branches at breakfast time. I can now see why they raved. Our breakfast order was simple enough, we both wanted a bacon and egg bap, with […]


Hix Oyster and Chop House – good menu, shame about the execution

The Hix Oyster and Chop House would be a lovely destination for those who don’t mind what food they eat, how it is served or how much it costs. Everyone else will feel let down. When we arrived we both thought it looked like a knock-off of Saint John. The menu looked quite similar too, […]


Cooking with truffles part 2 – truffled roast chicken

Right, this is serious cooking with the truffle. Buy the best chicken you can find, weighing about 2kg. Make sure it is up to room temperature before you start preparing and cooking it. Make some slits in the skin and slip in some lumps of unsalted butter. Then cut your truffle in half and shove […]


Another quality village Burgundy

Deuxieme Cru or village level, call it what you will as long as you call it totally delicious. Meursault ‘Tessons Clos de Mon Plaisir’ 2004, Domaine Roulot Oh what a beautiful nose! Honey and nuts, serious mineral complexity and super-classy style. This tickles my fancy in a completely pleasurable and slightly lewd manner. Oh yeah, […]


Cooking with truffles part 1 – the truffle omelette

Daniel was given a truffle on the condition we write up what we cooked with it. Seemed a good deal to me. The first thing we made was a truffle omelette. Step one is to put some top-quality eggs (Burford Browns are delicious) in an airtight jar with the truffle for four days; this infuses […]

South-East London pub of the year

The Dog and Bell in Deptford is CAMRA’s South-East London pub of the year. Deptford, the New York Times tells us, is the place to go to experience London’s multicultural life. The police are predicting an increase in stabbings. Indeed, as we got on the train from Woolwich the London newspaper headline was “Teenager stabbed […]


Cafe East is still London’s best noodle bar

Cafe East has moved since we first . It is now in a rather soulless shopping centre, and the cafe itself is more like a school dining room than the previous slightly squalid but charm-filled establishment. However, if you want quality noodles and Vietnamese food in London this is the destination of choice. We started […]

I want to change my vote

Yesterday we were at Lord’s having a whale of a time watching England thrash the West Indies by ten wickets. Ha! We drank some good wine. We started off with a bottle of Gosset Grande Reserve which was totally lovely: weighty, dense and stylish. It had deposited more tartarate crystals than any bottle of fizz […]

Aspalls 'Premier Cru' Cyder

In what way is this ‘premier cru’?

Delicious, bubbly, tasty cider of the type despised by real cider twats, but why premier cru? The label makes no mention of it coming from a specific orchard, let alone a special location in an orchard. Do they do a grand cru, I wonder? I’ve just looked at their website and no they don’t. Dry […]