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French Provinces 1 – English provinces 0

After returning from our largely disappointing jaunt to the provinces I wanted to cook something new, simple, yet tasty for dinner. A recipe in Richard Corrigan’s excellent The Clatter of Forks and Spoons (itself based on a recipe in Elizabeth David’s French Provincial Cooking) seemed to fit the bill. Rump Steak with Sauce Nivernaise Ingredients […]


Savaging Le Champignon Sauvage

We had heard so many good things about Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham that we had high hopes. A moment’s doubt crossed our minds when we saw the hideous dining room, but that wouldn’t matter as long as the food was all that we had been promised. It wasn’t. Indeed, it was one of the […]


L’Ortolan – competent provincial dining

This review is going to be difficult to write as, whilst we both enjoyed our lunch, we found it lacking the spark of excitement that makes for a properly mind-bending repast. I have to admit to not actually reading the menu, I was too busy looking at the wine list and making sharp intakes of […]


Another evening with Captain Peter

We met ‘The Kid’ Peter at the Greenwich Union for a couple of pints then came back to horrible, horrible Woolwich for a spot of dinner. We drank extraordinarily well for a random occasion. Riesling Grand Cru Sommerberg L31DII 2002, Domaine Albert Boxler Wow, a nose with the purity and freshness of mountain air. There […]


From nature to plate – a great recipe book

Today we have been looking through our latest recipe book acquisitions to find new things to cook. One book has really stood out as having interesting, inventive and inviting recipes in it: From Nature To Plate by Tom Kitchin Long time readers may recall we when we were in Edinburgh back in April. It was […]


Riding that cool banh mi wave

Banh mi are the new cool thing, we feel at the cutting edge of food style sourcing them out across London. Today’s offerings from the Greenwich vendor were perhaps the best we’ve had. Located in the little food market on Greenwich High Road (between Stockwell Street and Nelson Road) there is a banh mi stand […]


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Tike max – high quality Turkish action

Please be aware that, much to my chagrin, Tike has gone tits up. A real shame, it was a top destination for an affordable, quality and interesting meal. Just a few doors away from Fenchurch Street station (great building) there is Tike (pronounced tee-kay) a properly cool and properly good purveyor of Turkish food. Given […]


This was just a spontaneously organised drinking session

‘The Kid’ Peter came around yesterday afternoon and we popped a few bottles. It is really lovely to be drinking Burgundy. Burgundy is best, you know? Morey-Saint-Denis 2002, Domaine Dujac This has Captain Peter groaning and sighing with pleasure, he insists most Grand Cru Burgundy is not as good as this. In the broadest sense […]


Elitist Review is on the road again… well… back in The Union

The Union really delivers the goods, so many high-quality beers. It is close to where Captain Peter lives too. The quality of food here has increased no end in recent months. I’ll report on lunch later. For now, it is a pint of an old favourite. London Pale Ale 4.6%, Meantime Brewery A hoppy, fresh […]


An Autumn Mule

I had one of these at Hawksmoor last night. It was delish and so I was glad I kept my eye on how it was mixed. Into an ice-filled highball glass pour two shots of Plymouth gin and two shots of some lovely, fresh apple juice. Top up with ginger beer, Fentiman’s is good. The […]