Sometimes I wonder why I buy Corton; it is so often thin, lean and green. I suppose that is why I now only buy it in super-ripe vintages. Even then it rarely seems worthy of Grand Cru status. Ripe vintages, of course, are wildly expensive: especially if you buy from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault is big … Continue reading Christ, lovely Corton!
I will not waste much time writing this review as the Forte Kitchen, Winchester’s newest lunch spot, is not worth the time; the Forte Kitchen certainly do not think they should spend much time on food. Indeed, the Forte Kitchen is a lunch place you should go if you are an anorexic who has a … Continue reading The Forte Kitchen – food is not its forte
This is the second of the wines that Todd Hamina sent for Team Elitistreview to try. He says it is about half whole clusters and 25% new oak. It was included in the sample case he sent me, he says, to give me an idea of where he is going with his wines. Bugger me, … Continue reading Hit me, Hamina, one more time!
Sometimes really good things happen. In the early hours of the morning a few weeks ago I lamented on the loss of my wonderful red Burgundy collection, swiped from my (ex-)cellar based in Morey-Saint-Denis. A lovely Oregon winemaker, Toddy Hamina, asked if having some wine to review would cheer me up. I was so touched … Continue reading From Oregon with love
Lafon’s basic red wine! A chance to taste Lafon’s stylish red wines for a fraction of what the Volnays go for – cannot go wrong, right? Especially in 2009 there should be a mass of ripe fruit to deal with and it should be totally delicious, right? Wrong! I am sure you are aware of … Continue reading Lafon on acid
On Monday night we returned, with our excellent friend Ricard, to Hawksmoor Spitalfields in London for the first time in three years. There was a time where nearly 10% of this blog consisted of articles about Hawksmoor or the wines we drank there. Our visit conclusively proved it was worth such heavy coverage – going … Continue reading Hawksmoor three years on
Hermitage Blanc. Why? Just why? It is often more expensive than its red sibling, whilst not being a conventionally nice drink. It has an awfully unpredictable ageing profile, that makes them almost impossible to know when to open. There is usually bugger all acidity to them, making them seem like a frumpy schoolgirl looking sulky … Continue reading Stunning Colombier Hermitage Blanc
Wines like the two I report on below make you seriously consider that red Burgundy could be a far more wonderful experience than even German Riesling. These two may be a shade less cerebral than top German Riesling, but cripes they deliver a staggering amount of raw, visceral pleasure! For those who don’t know Joblot’s … Continue reading Divine dissolution
Are not de Montille labels incredibly cool? Even when they say ‘Beaune’ on them, which are by far their least flash wines. Not that they are bad, you understand. It is just that not so long as ago a poor lunatic who never had a any time off from the occupation forced upon him could … Continue reading De Montille Beaune Sizies
The Clark Foyster Burgundy 2014 en primeur tasting is the highlight of the tasting season. They have a small but stunningly good selection of producers in their portfolio. Even better, the owners of Clark Foyster Wines, Isabelle Clark and Lance Foyster, do not gouge their customers even though they sell such flash kit; there is usually … Continue reading 2014 Red Burgundy from Clark Foyster