Cafe Bay in Denmark Hill

Mundane banh mi at Cafe Bay

As far as fashionable crazes go Elitistreview is generally so far behind that it is ahead; this must explain our passion for modish banh mi (Vietnamese baguettes). When noshing at the other day its owner, David Parkin, suggested we head out to Denmark Hill to give Café Bay, sister restaurant, a try. As I had […]


Cornas 'Domaine de Rochepertuis' 2004, Jean Lionnet

Corking Cornas

I suppose this is a bit off of me, the poor chap does need a rest after all those years of hard work, but I was so disconsolate when I learned that 2005 was Jean Lionnet’s final vintage before he retired and sold off his vineyards. His prestige cuvee Cornas, Domaine de Rochepertuis, was one […]


Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru les Perrieres 2006 from Domaine Robert Chevillon

Maybe I should have hyper-decanted this

For those who missed my you should check out the video in that post for a highly disrespectful method of getting tough, unyielding wines to be a touch more giving. I really should have done it with this wine, even after pouring it into a jug and giving it a long shake it still was […]


This afternoon's 2008 Pinots

Whizz that wine!

The Elitistreview team met up with top London wine-merchants Lance Foyster and Isabelle Clark for lunch today (Franco Manca pizzas are good, but we thought the service in their Chiswick branch was woeful). Lance and Isabelle issued us with the wine they had been showing in the morning for us to sample this afternoon; we […]


Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru 2001 from Paul Pernot

White Grand Cru Burgundy and Jersey Royals

Let us face it, most of the time plain boiled potatoes are pretty dreary. Even baby new potatoes that are not over-cooked still fire up passion only vanishingly rarely. Yet, I rather like Jersey Royals – they have a flavour and interest-level few other spuds can match. Why is this so? Partly because of the […]


Dry Tokaji Furmint ‘Szent Tamas’ 2005 from Szepsy

Dry Tokaji probably doesn’t get more grown-up

Sometimes one forgets how fortunate one is. Editor Daniel pointed out this bottle of dry Tokaji in Fortnum and Mason and asked if it was worth buying as he had never tried one. “You’ve never tried dry Tokaji!” I said with such incredulity he could have just said that ex-PM Gordon Brown was a really […]


Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de Fourches 2007, Domaine J-F Mugnier

Chambolle, a couple of Nuits and wonderful white Hermitage

When you pop a few bottles with your chums just for random drinking you don’t always expect them all to deliver superior, serious drinking value. I did very well tonight with those I opened. Indeed, some of them dished out quality of such coruscating brilliance I don’t think I’ll be able to experience them in […]


The Dogfather

Viet-Van and The Dogfather – spectacular street-food in South London

There is a mind-bending amount of pointless drivel on the internet, so when you encounter a rare gem of useful intelligence you feel you have done very well. A tip to visit the North Cross Road food market in Dulwich was a particularly coruscating gem – street food in London has rarely been so pleasurable. […]


Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Loibner Berg 2001, FX Pichler

Confused GruV with roast chicken

When deciding on a wine to pop with roast chicken my thoughts immediately turn to white Burgundy. However, Editor Daniel suggested we try something different so I looked through the wine cupboard and found a bottle of Gruner Veltliner from a really spiffy producer – we expected serious interest value. It has been a while […]


Pinot Gris Vendanges Tardives Grand Cru Sommerberg 2006, Domaine Albert Boxler

I am celebrating with sugary wine!

Last week I got a call from my doctor with the results of a blood test. She told me I had diabetes and so needed to come in and discuss it. I was more than a little perturbed by this; as an ex-epidemiologist I am well aware how serious diabetes can be. Indeed, even today […]