Meursault Premier Cru Charmes 2000, Domaine Comte Lafon

Stellar white Burgundy

‘Comte Lafon’s Meursaults are too oaky’, I’ve heard the line so many times and just cannot understand how people can get that idea. Tonight’s bottle had many characteristics, but I’d struggle to say oak was an obvious one amongst them. I shouldn’t gloat, but I’ve had a lot of very grown-up Lafon wines. There used […]


Riesling Spatlese Graacher Domprobst 2002, Willi Schaefer

This Zind-Humbrecht tastes of shit

It is a Saturday, there is cricket on, Riesling is called for! Last time they were rather good, this time… deary me… Zind-Humbrecht wines, particularly the flasher Grand Crus, do strike me as being rather unstable beasts and so it is somewhat of a lottery ageing the blighters. These two bottles had been kept in […]


Chinon La Croix Boissee 2007 by Bernard Baudry

Breakfast Chinon

Sleep has been avoiding me of late. Perhaps it is has noticed the staggeringly lurid spot I have on my nose and so thinks I am a witch and might put a hex on it. Whatever the reason, I am feeling distinctly spent and shagged out after another night awake. Consequently, I think it only […]


David modelling Langhe Nebbiolo 2009 from Sottimano

Nebbiolo and Camembert

I wanted to obtain this bottle of Nebbiolo to see if it was worth shelling out for the producer’s flasher wines. When I was on the blower to the wine-merchant he said he only had one bottle of the grown-up example I particularly wanted, so I scored that anyway. Perhaps this is cognitive dissonance at […]


Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile Vendanges Tardives 1989, F. E. Trimbach

Glorious Alsace Riesling

I have long held Trimbach’s Cuvee Frederic Emile Riesling in high regard. Indeed, the 1979 provided my seminal wine experience at the age of eight. My comment at the time was, “Wow, wine can taste of so many different things!” which I think is a pretty incisive analysis for a neophyte taster. I’ve had that […]


Domaine Tempier 1999s

A convocation of captains

James Hardy, Peter Palmer and I are rightly proud to have been captains of the Oxford University blind tasting team. As I am sure you can imagine, this means we are very keen on drinking top bunny wine. Just the other day (well, it was 10 days ago, but my computer being functionally-challenged and my […]


The Kabinetts at the Howard Ripley German Riesling tasting 2010

2010 German Riesling – stupefyingly good

I have been having computer issues over the last week so I am getting a tad behind transcribing my notes, I hope the next few days will see them published. Yesterday’s tasting of 2010 German Rieslings organised by the great wine merchant Howard Ripley was such a remarkable, marvellous and flabbergasting experience that it has […]


Richard celebrating his son's first birthday in a minimalist style

Stunning drinking at a one year old’s birthday party

It really has been a dismaying length of time since I attended a one year old’s birthday party, so long indeed that time has bleached the memory from my tired old brain. What I can be sure of is that way back then I did not drink such a stunning array of joyously engaging wines, […]


Manzanilla La Gitana from Hidalgo

Summer drinking for the illuminati

Right, let me make one thing entirely clear from the start: Sherry is a fortified wine that comes from the Jerez area of Spain. There is definitely no such thing as British Sherry, Cyprus Sherry, Wodonga Sherry or any similar variety of filth that the mendacious purveyor of sordid dross might try to coerce you […]


Boca 2006, Le Piane

Obscure Nebbiolo and a poll

Boca DOC is a deeply obscure Piedmontese wine region. They claim that during the 19th century it was one of the most well-regarded wine regions in Europe, but isn’t that what all of these unrecognised wine regions say about themselves? It is certainly true that a lot of quality wine regions were blitzed by phyloxera […]