Cabo Girao from viewpoint

Barbeito Madeira

You can reach for the stars if you climb the Cabo Girao at 589 metres above sea level. Alternatively you can taste vinous stars if you call Sergio to take you up a little higher to the Vinhos Barbeito winery. There you can learn about the insanely complex process of turning underripe wines (from grapes […]


Bastard thief

Thieving bastard

The Editor and I had a bit of bad news on Monday morning. I got a call from the host of our cellar in France and he told us it had been broken into and a large proportion of our wine had been stolen. I was a shade distraught at this news. Our wine collections […]


I bet the original Frink horse is worth more than Côte!

Côte de Winchester

Either moving to Winchester from London has eroded my critical faculties – even though it has reduced my blood pressure from 200/100 to 134/84, you would have to be both brave and foolhardy to suggest that – or it seems that outside the benighted, squalid, expensive dump that is Town, chain restaurants are actually a […]


Riedel Sommelier Hermitage glass

Wine glass recommendations

A friend has just asked me to recommend some wine glasses. I realise I get asked this rather often so I thought I would dash off a quick post to help any people who are looking for glasses to buy. I shall start of with dream glasses and then move on to the stemware I […]


Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2005

I am still alive, not so this wine

I must start with an apology. I apologise for not writing any Elitistreview posts for far too long; unsurprisingly I have an excuse. Two months ago I had a fit and collapsed into a quivering heap on the floor right on top of my left foot and ankle. I totally buggered them. So for the last […]


Davy reading Little Life

Little Life, Davy as art

For those with an interest in the arts, and a degree of interest in me beyond my role as writer of lewd tasting notes, it might pique your curiosity to learn that I am the subject of a photographic art book by the talented, up-and-coming photographer Nataliya Ileva. I was incredibly flattered when she chose […]


Coldstream PInot Noir 2012, Mac Forbes

Australia elegant

The truth is, of course, that I hate Australian red wine. I loathe and despise the aesthetic ideal that dictates that red wine should have the consistency of pea soup, be sickly sweet with alcohol (and residual sugar), that it should be so dark it sucks in light from rooms away and with tannins as […]


Jouan Clos-Saint-Denis 2012

Henri Jouan Clos-Saint-Denis Grand Cru 2012

On Friday night we had a little dinner party with our friend Christian who had come all the way from Switzerland to see us (possibly). We drank many really delicious wines and one that was probably the best young red Burgundy that I have owned (and then drank). I love Clos-Saint-Denis. It is simply gorgeous. […]


Champy Beaune aux Cras

Elitistreview is nine!

Elitistreview is nine years old today. There has been sadness, joy, ecstasy, psychosis, reports from the loony bin and one hell of a lot of Burgundy. I started off with a note on a Burgundy from a very grand producer and nine years later I’m still drinking Burgundy. Alas, today I cannot afford anything as aureate […]


Rene Engel Clos-Vougeot Grand Cru 1998

Live in the moment

The supreme aesthetic experience is something that is sadly meaningless to a large proportion of the population. Sad it is because the visceral, emotional, intellectual thrills that can penetrate your psyche and infuse your whole body, taking it to a different plane of existence, are so profound they improve and enhance our lives, our view […]