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What’s bright pink, smells divine and is shaped like a Burgundy bottle

A bottle of Biggio-Hamina Andreas Vineyard Gewüztraminer, of course! I am not terribly used to seeing colourless Burgundy bottles, even less so seeing them filled with bright pink wine – but I will try anything once, twice if I like it! The winemaker, the lovely Todd Hamina, told me that ‘this is an orange wine, […]


Corton Les Renards 2009 Ligier Belaire

Christ, lovely Corton!

Sometimes I wonder why I buy Corton; it is so often thin, lean and green. I suppose that is why I now only buy it in super-ripe vintages. Even then it rarely seems worthy of Grand Cru status. Ripe vintages, of course, are wildly expensive: especially if you buy from Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault is big […]


Tiny Piece of off fish at the Forte Kitchen

The Forte Kitchen – food is not its forte

I will not waste much time writing this review as the Forte Kitchen, Winchester’s newest lunch spot, is not worth the time; the Forte Kitchen certainly do not think they should spend much time on food. Indeed, the Forte Kitchen is a lunch place you should go if you are an anorexic who has a […]


Zenith Vineyard Pinot Noir 2010 from Biggio-Hamnia

Hit me, Hamina, one more time!

This is the second of the wines that Todd Hamina sent for Team Elitistreview to try. He says it is about half whole clusters and 25% new oak. It was included in the sample case he sent me, he says, to give me an idea of where he is going with his wines. Bugger me, […]


Biggio-Hamina Youngberg Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2014

From Oregon with love

Sometimes really good things happen. In the early hours of the morning a few weeks ago I lamented on the loss of my wonderful red Burgundy collection, swiped from my (ex-)cellar based in Morey-Saint-Denis. A lovely Oregon winemaker, Toddy Hamina, asked if having some wine to review would cheer me up. I was so touched […]


Horrible Lafon red

Lafon on acid

Lafon’s basic red wine! A chance to taste Lafon’s stylish red wines for a fraction of what the Volnays go for – cannot go wrong, right? Especially in 2009 there should be a mass of ripe fruit to deal with and it should be totally delicious, right? Wrong! I am sure you are aware of […]


Hawksmoor menu

Hawksmoor three years on

On Monday night we returned, with our excellent friend Ricard, to Hawksmoor Spitalfields in London for the first time in three years. There was a time where nearly 10% of this blog consisted of articles about Hawksmoor or the wines we drank there. Our visit conclusively proved it was worth such heavy coverage – going […]


Colombier Hermitage Blanc 2007 label

Stunning Colombier Hermitage Blanc

Hermitage Blanc. Why? Just why? It is often more expensive than its red sibling, whilst not being a conventionally nice drink. It has an awfully unpredictable ageing profile, that makes them almost impossible to know when to open. There is usually bugger all acidity to them, making them seem like a frumpy schoolgirl looking sulky […]


The Editor enjoing Morey Les Loups 2007

Divine dissolution

Wines like the two I report on below make you seriously consider that red Burgundy could be a far more wonderful experience than even German Riesling. These two may be a shade less cerebral than top German Riesling, but cripes they deliver a staggering amount of raw, visceral pleasure! For those who don’t know Joblot’s […]


De Montille Beaune Sizies

De Montille Beaune Sizies

Are not de Montille labels incredibly cool? Even when they say ‘Beaune’ on them, which are by far their least flash wines. Not that they are bad, you understand. It is just that not so long as ago a poor lunatic who never had a any time off from the occupation forced upon him could […]