A bit nutty

Etienne de Montille took over wine making duties at the Château for the 2002 vintage. There was an immediate rise in quality. It is a bright and sunny day here in London and we are winning in the cricket. I couldn’t ask for a nicer drink. Meursault Premier Cru les Perrieres 2002, Château de Puligny-Montrachet […]

A touch of severity

Another Pierre Gimonnet wine, opened to be drank with roast chicken. It is also a Blanc de Blanc from Cuis. Brut Premier Cru Cuis ‘Gastronome’ 2000, Pierre Gimonnet et fils A bready, biscuit-y nose. It has some weight and a touch of mineral complexity. The palate also has a degree of weight, but the acidity […]

Surprisingly silky and smooth

Cornas is usually quite rough and masculine, this is a refined version. Cornas Domaine Saint-Pierre 1995, Paul Jaboulet-Aine The nose is silky with ripe, dark fruit. It has a good earthy character as well. It smells reasonably complex and perfectly mature, with a pleasing voluptuous character. There is a degree of masculinity on the palate, […]

Two meaty ones

It is a compare and contrast session with two 1997 Mourvèdres. Bridgehead Mataro 1997, Ridge The nose is quite polished and round, but it seems that the fruit is beginning to leave this wine. It doesn’t smell particularly complex. The palate has a bit of fruit, but it is quite angular and drying out a […]

A fun fizz for a lovely day

What a lovely day it has been in Town! The sun has been shining, there has been a gentle breeze and I have been trying a new Champagne producer. This is his most basic stuff and it is a bargain. Champagne Brut Cuis Premier Cru, Gimonnet et fils This smelled very fresh and malic on […]


Spring is here

Spring has arrived in the UK, and this means some good food is available. At Borough Market last weekend we purchased some of the first Lincolnshire asparagus of the season. It was quite expensive, but very good indeed. We also got some Jersey Royal new potatoes. We cooked these both up with some quail for […]

A model of harmony

Continuing my theme that wines do not have to be frighteningly alcoholic to be good I was very pleased with this little number clocking in at 12.5%. It was lovely. Vosne-Romanée 2002, Domaine Rene Engel A fresh nose of complex, exotic fruit. It is quite beautiful and stylish. The fruit and minerality of the nose […]

The lunacy of 2003 European wines

Zind-Humbrecht do not hold back when it comes to making large-scale wines. Even in moderate vintages they can be real behemoths. 2003 was incredibly hot all over Europe, so some very ripe wines have been produced. Z-H produced some wines that have been quite terrifying in terms of ripeness. Riesling Grand Cru Rangen Clos Saint-Urbain […]

Terrible fizz

I’ve really hated every Egly-Ouriet Champagne I’ve had. This was recommended to me by someone reliable who claimed it was nice and fruity; niceness and fruitiness are characters lacking in their other fizzes I’ve tried. As it is their most basic cuvée it should have been fooled around with less. It is pure Pinot Meunier. […]

Five wines from around the web #4

A mixed bag of wines this month, some decent Burgundy and top-flight Cornas. You’ll note it is not only European wines that get a nod this month. Clos de la Roche Grand Cru 2000, Domaine Arlaud: A vintage that is up for drinking soon. Arlaud’s Clos de la Roche might not be as good as […]