Speak of the devil

After mentioning this wine in a comment below I couldn’t really think of an excuse to leave it in the wine cupboard. Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru les Cras 1995, Ghislaine Barthod Bright red fruit on the nose. Very pure and quite ripe. Not so ripe that this is heroic, thankfully, as some ’95s are. The fruit [...]


Too young

The 1995 of this has been drinking marvellously over the past couple of years, I was rather surprised by this. Côte-Rôtie 1997, Jasmin The nose has very strong youthful Syrah beetroot characters. Also prune and some dark fruit. It smells very young. The palate is tight and closed. Not hard tannins but the fruit is [...]


Two ’99s

One with dinner at the restaurant Andrew Edmunds and one on our return home. It is a great place to eat; the food is usually simple but good. The wine list is good and affordable, too. Chambolle-Musigny 1999, Ghislaine Barthod A ripe, bright, fruity nose. Very pure and refined, it speaks of Chambolle. Not over-ripe [...]


More tired than some things

Today was the fourth anniversary of my partner moving in with me. This is know as the ‘flower’ or ‘fruit’ anniversary. We did fruit in the form of a bottle of fizz. Grande Année 1997, Bollinger A surprisingly mature and slightly oxidised nose. Some fruit and quite a lot of cold cocoa character. The palate [...]


That barrel is mine! - Tasting at J-F Mugnier

Speaking of Mugnier

I did enjoy my visit to Mugnier. I felt bright and jolly especially when we reached the Musigny part of the tasting: The ’04s were really good across the board, a vintage that really suits the Mugnier style. A tip for anyone visiting him, M. Mugnier finds the word ‘concentration’ to be an awful way [...]


cellar21

Straight from the horse’s mouth

Of my rather minimalist achievements this year some of the best have been to get on the private clients’ list of a few producers. On my visit to Alsace this summer I arranged to buy from Domaine Bruno Sorg and Domaine Albert Boxler every year. I was surprised when Boxler said my allocation could well [...]


A duff vintage?

I am not the biggest fan of Burgundy 1998s, they often seem hard and tough. This is a bit of a shame as it is one of the two vintages I’ve assisted with. However, this wine seems rather nice. Volnay Premier Cru Champans 1998, Marquis d’Angerville A bright, lively nose of red fruit. It is [...]


It is not oxidised!

Oremus are owned by Vega Sicilia, so by rights this wine should be so oxidised it would only taste of vinegar. Luckily, Vega have not moved their love of over-oxidised wines to Hungary. Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos 1999, Oremus A heady golden colour. The nose is very ripe and botrytic, but has no sign of [...]


A new producer

It’s the first time I’ve tried wine from this producer. I met him in a restaurant on my last trip to Burgundy, he was very loud. Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 1999, Domaine Christophe Newman A pure and elegant nose of red fruit, it is not especially complex. The alcohol stands out a bit. The palate is [...]


A white Burgundy of first quality

This is not quite as good as the Cailleret on christmas day, but it is pretty damned-good. Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Pucelles 2001, Domaine Leflaive A rich, powerful, toasty nose that has real Grand Cru power. The oak is noticeable but it is not unbalanced. The palate is fruity and oaky, but has really good acidity [...]