The playground is not the same anymore

Dukes hotel bar used to be one of my favourite places. It was certainly the site of one of my favourite things to say, namely: “Two Tanqueray martinis, please”. It was a cosy, homely environment in which to consume vast quantities of alcohol and still feel at ease with yourself. It used to feel like […]


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La Ferme de la Ruchotte revisited

We’ve been here . The owner/chef’s obsession with eating many different breeds of chicken continues to great effect. The first course was a poached egg served in a broth with trompette and chanterelle mushrooms gathered by the chef’s mother. The egg was meltingly soft and full of flavour. Very good to have some fresh mushrooms. […]


My only bottle of Claret

I only own one bottle of Claret, I hate the stuff. Red Bordeaux is simply dull unless it is fabulously expensive, and most of them are still crap. After this I am not going to buy another bottle of red Bordeaux. Domaine de Chevalier 1995 Oh god, I fucking hate crappy fucking Claret. Yeah, yeah, […]


An odd old experiment

I took this to my cellar in France on release and dragged it back on my way to the bin. It isn’t bad at all. Semillon 2000, Moss Wood This smells amazingly oaky, but it has seen no new oak at all. It has some waxy, lanoline character as well. Not much in the way […]


My last meal in Burgundy

Meusault les Tillets 2001, Roulot Very good minerality on the nose, nice fruit, too. It has a very elegant, refined palate that is characterised by lemon fruit, acidity and minerality all in perfect harmony. This is quite a delicious wine. Vintage Champagne 1996, Pol Roger Bready. yeasty nose that shows hints of maturity. The palate […]


More general drinking on the Monday

Hermitage La Chapelle 1988, Jaboulet Slightly high-toned nose, it is a bit cheesy too. Not much fruit. Palate is a bit tough and dry and also lacks a bit of fruit. Reasonable length, though. It does seem a bit past it. Riesling Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée St. Catherine l’Inedit! 2000, Domaine Weinbach Lovely earthy nose, […]


Chez Anne Gros

The one producer I managed to visit on the abbreviated trip. All of the wines were barrel samples of 2006. Anne Gros commented that the 06 vintage had a lot of charm. I could see that, I also thought the wines were quite pure and refined. Bourgogne Rouge Hautes Cotes de Nuits 2006 Prickly, slightly […]


Dinner with Jacques and Roz Seysses

Well, the first two bottles we had by the pool. I wanted to see what Jacques thought of Bannockburn as Gary Farr, the winemaker of Bannockburn, has done some vintages at Dujac. Riesling Grand Cru Pfersigberg Vieille Vigne 2001, Bruno Sorg Very much like Cuvée Frédéric Emile on the nose. Ripe fruit and concentration but […]


At la Ferme de la Ruchotte

A brilliant in the hills of the Hautes Cotes. Monthelie 2004, Comte Lafon Nice lemon fruit, some minerality. It is light and simple on the palate but perfectly drinkable. Nice enough. Morgon 2006, Lapierre Light strawberry fruit nose. Clarity of fruit on the nose and palate. Nice and refreshing. This is real type Beaujolais that […]


First day in France

I am out of the bin so, as promised, here are my brief notes from the aborted trip to France. On our first day we had: Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru Morgeot 2001, Moreau et fils Quite direct, some nice weight, though, but not terribly complex. It had been opened for a day. Puligny-Montrachet 2000, Domaine Leflaive […]