Amboniacus – the fizz for amazing cricket

I have just watched the most amazing period of cricket I think I will ever see: Australia being bowled out for 60 before the lunch interval. It was incredible, they were flayed alive! And when one sees such an incredible event it calls for Champagne!

I cannot claim to be an expert on Marguet. I know they are a grower with a reputation for making characterful wines. This zero dosage 2009 Vintage Grand Cru made from 50% Pinot Noir and 50% Chardonnay is not short on character.

I should add that it was a fabulous match with the excellent Feta cheese from The Cheese Stall that appears in Winchester three days a week. High quality Feta is an excellent cheese, just do not buy that Danish stuff that is water held in a protein matrix, made for people who are scared of food with flavour. Are they not a weird bunch, those who do not want their food to taste of anything? They certainly would not enjoy this fizz as it tastes of one hell of a lot!

Amboniacus bottleChampagne Grand Cru Ambonnay Vintage Amboniacus 2009, Marguet

The nose is thrilling! There are lots of hazelnuts, together with redcurrant and cherry fruit. It is alive, charged with energy.

It also seems very dense, with layers of powerful flavour penetrating your nasal cavities. It smells very exciting and I want to plunge in and drink some. So I will!

Wow! What a palate! It is thick with fruity power and alive with edgy acidity. It tastes very exciting.

It also tastes very dry, no doubt thanks to the zero dosage. When there is so much fruit and so much power this does not make it seem acrid or punishing. It is a delightful mouthful that fills your palate with fruity, nutty flavours.

This really is quite delicious and the fruity density is a perfect foil for the top grade Feta I’m noshing. The combination is divine and has managed to even keep me happy now that England have lost a wicket.

The mousse is supremely fine. It tickles and titillates rather than burns and roughly tortures your palate. It may have a powerful fruit structure but it is an extremely elegant fizz.

You get the idea that I like this. But I should say I’m not always convinced of the ageing potential of these zero dosage Champagnes. That’s no problem, though, you can score some bottles of this from The Wine Society and drink it with remarkable pleasure over what remains of the summer.

Finally, this may not be quite as profound as the Winston Churchill 2002 I had a crafty glass of a few weeks back, but it has given me a lot more enjoyment value – it is a tantalising minx who wants to tease all your ticklish areas before getting down to the important business of making you very happy. Top bunny fizz!

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