By arse, it has structure!

The first time I tried Clos de la Roilette I was given it blind with a few years age on it and, as a blind tasting deity I am slightly embarrassed to admit this, I thought it was rather good Cote-Rotie. It is quite definitely my favourite Beaujolais and usually does surprise me with its serious nature. I suppose I should be used to it by now…

I’ve now tried a handful of 2010 Beaujolais and, whilst they are not as charged with unabashed lubricity as the 2009s, they seem to have a restrained charm that appeals to the minimalist in me. My initial impression is that it is a pretty good vintage, but perhaps one to buy from the better producers.

Fleurie Clos de la Roilette 2010, Coudert Pere et Fils

I cannot deny there is more than a suggestion of Beaujolais bubble-gum fruit on this nose which, at best, only approaches being so interesting, but there is more… Who’d have thought it from a Beaujolais nose, but there is a distinct minerality on show here – it is pretty complex. These aromas are not overt, but are all pretty tightly bound up together; it is a young wine and I think this nose will have more to show when it settles down a bit. I am quite staggered by the seriousness of the tannic structure this palate has, it must be the most severe Fleurie the world has ever seen. I rather like that. I rather like the acidity that energises the pretty fruit as well. Again, this seems a very young wine and those elements are perhaps not in absolute accord, but the constitution of the palate is quite extraordinary for a Beaujolais and I cannot help but find myself rather impressed by it. If you are one of those people who believe that ageing Beaujolais is a valid use of cellar-space then this is a must buy. Those aficionados who are less off their chump should try this toward the end of the year and expect to be impressed by a distinctly profound example of the style.