For those who missed my hyper-decanting larks you should check out the video in that post for a highly disrespectful method of getting tough, unyielding wines to be a touch more giving. I really should have done it with this wine, even after pouring it into a jug and giving it a long shake it still was shy about showing its charms.
Fortunately, it is showing more charms than the last bottle I popped which was clearly faulty. This is a powerful, profound and very Nuits wine that has gone into a bit of a hole – I will revisit my remaining two bottles when they are at least thirteen.
Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru les Perrieres 2006, Domaine Robert Chevillon
Now this is what quality Nuits smells like: brooding, dark fruit with a complex earthiness that demands you keep on swirling and agitating your glass so it’ll reveal more of it’s manly nose-candy. It does need agitating, it is suffering somewhat from being in a middle aged hole, but there is enough class and sophistication on show to mark this out as a wine of at least double-A superlativeness. Yeah, top Nuits action. By arse the palate is almost intimidatingly structured, that is what one expects from middle-aged Nuits – I really deserve a dunce’s cap on and be made to stand in the corner until I am repentant for showing this wine to guests when it is not at a totally charming stage in it’s development. Tests to that, though, I am enjoying this a lot even if my guests say, “It is a bit dry”. It isn’t at all dry. Yeah the structure is rigorous, but the rich minerality, wonderfully intertwined with great acid and more than enough ripe fruit keep this wine balanced and rather toothsome. The finish is impressively long and sophisticated. It is great stuff, but, and I’m being serious now, don’t pop yours now unless you are vastly braver with a blender than I am.