Dr Loosen wines can be quite attractive when they are young, but I feel with age they often fail to deliver the goods based on their initial promise. I’m very pleased that this wine is quite attractive, even if it is not the most thrillingly refulgent bottle of German Riesling I’ve had.
I should add that, should you find yourself down Bernkastel way, dropping by chez Loosen is well worth your time. Erni Loosen is a charming and generous host with a good range of middle-Mosel vineyards that, when young, are expressive of their origins. When you’ve finished tasting take him out for sausages at the Bernkastel wurst purveyor – he seems rather taken with their currywurst. Do try to fit in a “Do your wurst” joke.
Riesling Auslese Erdener Pralat 2002, Dr Loosen
Lots of sweet, ripe lemon and lime fruit on the nose, a bit like Sprite with the merest dash of diesel added. There is a pleasing suggestion of slate minerality too, but it lacks the stellar focus and inspiriting complexity of the very best producers’ wines. Its nice enough. The palate has plenty of enjoyable fruit and acidity that sufficiently balances the distinct sweetness, but sophistication, thrills and general nervy excitement are not present at the levels one really seeks. It also gives me the impression of being quite forward; 2002 may not be the most supreme of vintages but I’d really expect what is Dr Loosen’s top wine to have more in store for the future. A nice, enjoyable drink that has no faults or flaws, but wines like the 1998 Berncasteler Doctor I had the other day just obliterate this with high-yield atomic devices.