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A very minimalist Burgundy

I like these small-scale Pinot Noirs very much, they provide drinkable refreshment without being the slightest bit overwhelming. That being said, there are better little Pinots out there.

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Pernand-Vergelesses Premier Cru Ile des Vergelesses 2007, Domaine Chandon de Briailles

I’m sure you won’t be surprised when I say that this is another very pale coloured wine from Chandon de Briailles. It has a nose of bright, fresh and very slightly unripe strawberries. There is a good, focussed minerality here, indeed ‘focus’ seems to define this nose. But for all its precision and refinement, this nose just seems to lack a touch of charm; I’d like a bit more love. The palate is much the same: precise and focussed with not quite fully-ripe strawberry fruit. It has rather gripping acidity, a tightly-wound, but not tough, tannic structure and a mineral character which I think is rather bracing. It has some length and reasonable complexity too. However, it is just lacking excitement, it needs a bit more sex-appeal. It is a perfectly enjoyable drink, but if you want to be excited by a small-scale Pinot Noir then the Mac Forbes’ Pinots I have had recently deliver a barrow-load more pleasure and beguiling delight. Not that such things matter on Elitist Review, but they also cost less than this so, it is pretty clear which get the recommendation as far as beautiful little Pinots go. Go and buy those Mac Forbes single vineyards, you won’t regret it.

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