Two Mac Forbes wonders and a tired Austrian Ausbruch

At the moment no one in Australian is making better Riesling or Pinot Noir than Mac Forbes. A real treat to try these two. Bit of a shame the Lang sweetie was past it.

Two Mac Forbes wonders and a tired Austrian Ausbruch

Riesling 2005, Mac Forbes

I would be failing you, my dear reader, if I did not admit to there being a hint of sulphury swimming pools about this nose. But this is not all that is JJ Prum-like about it. It is staggering mineral; like smelling a handful of rock-filled soil. It also has delicious, lovely, charm-powered ripe lime fruit in abundance which is just edging into a hint of petrol-character thanks to its five-years of age. This is the nose of a properly good, totally compelling Riesling that just begs you to dive in and taste it. And when you do taste it be prepared to be amazed by quite how unfeasibly mineral it is. My fellow tasters and I agree that swirling this around your mouth is like chewing rocks in terms of flavour profile. This mineral action is brilliant and it is in total harmony with its mouth-watering acidity, vivacious citrus fruit and scrumptious sweetness. Clearly a Riesling of gorgeous personality and exquisite character; to taste it is to love it and then demand many, many more bottles to drink. I wouldn’t mind many more bottles if any of you have more than you require for your current needs.

Pinot Noir Coldstream 2008, Mac Forbes

Pinot Noir ‘Coldstream’ 2008, Mac Forbes

This nose displays real earthy power coupled with an intense, utterly delightful fruitiness. The fruit is perfectly ripe and alluring with no hint of being jammy or stewed and that earthiness is complex, characterful and speaks of a place (a place, I admit, I have very little experience of). This smells not only giving and attractive but also complex and stylish. Moreover, the palate is not only very accessible but also gives you things to think about. There is a lot of that tits-out fruit and a very silky, intricate tannic structure. Good acidity keeps this vigorous and lively and it is really rather long with complex earthiness and more of the fruit persisting for a remarkably long time. An exquisite, ravishing Pinot which goes the extra distance in terms of having serious class and panache.

Samling 88 Ausbruch 1995, Helmut Lang

Samling 88 Ausbruch 1995, Helmut Lang

This colour worries me, it is just too orange for a wine even of this age and sweetness. Ah, I am right to worry, the nose reeks of oxidation; it smells like a Tokaji which you have left open for about three months too long. That volatile acidity action is just crazy, man. It still tastes sweet, but is totally shagged out and generally knackered. Sorry Lance, it is just dead.


3 Comments

  • ed tully wrote:

    You came dangerously close to suggesting the Pinot was “village-y”, and you know where that leads…

  • lance wrote:

    Ah well David, thanks for confirming my suspicions on the ausbruch. i stuck it in to fill the box i sent you. Had no idea what state it would be in, though i seem to remember this wine was working well by the glass at Petrus (as was) about 2 – 3 years ago. Never mind. We’ll try a younger version at some point.
    Ferry across from Queenscliff to Mornington then Kooyong this afternoon. Sunny and warm!

  • Jeremy wrote:

    I have a few older Lang’s here that we can try over the summer, but not sure if there are any Ausbruch’s among them. We can try one over the summer if you are interested.



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