Bonne Nuits(-Saint-Georges)

Sorry. It is nearly half-one in the morning.

Right, hot tips from the bargain village of the Cote de Nuits (the whole area is named after this village, surely it cannot be so bad?): what should you be getting?

The producer every lover of truly excellent wine needs to buy is Robert Chevillon. Buy any vintage you can find, they are consistent performers. Consistently excellent performers. The 1999 Les Saint Georges and Vaucrains [link2post id=”524″]I put in a little tasting[/link2post] were totally lovely, wonderful wines of charm, personality and class. I have vivid memories of 2002s from many Premier Crus burning with life, power and elan. You need to own some Chevillon Nuits Premier Crus.

I mentioned an Alain Michelot Premier Cru Richemone and it was good enough to recommend. If you go here then look at he embarrassment of riches on offer for not too much cash you should be able to find something to suit your budget. Clearly the 2006 Nuits VV is a bargain but that 2005 Richemone will be a superb example of a Nuits Premier Cru. Please save some for me to buy.

The current wine joke is that the best Nuits-Saint-Georges producer is in Chambolle, or Vosne, or Volnay… There is some truth to this. Mugnier make excellent Nuits Premier Cru Clos de la Marachale, with its charming beauty and brilliant harmony, in Chambolle. This is a very individual take on a Nuits Premier Cru, it is priced quite reasonably and is another reliable performer.

In Vosne there is Premier Cru Murgers from Sylvain Cathiard which is clearly a fine wine. It was the 1632″]first wine I reported on on Elitist Review. Two of my favourite Nuits Premier Crus come from Primeaux, in the form of Clos des Forets and Clos de l’Arlot from Domaine l’Arlot. M. de Smet’s at l’Arlot wines have been constant drinking buddies with me since I first understood that Burgundy is best. Never let him give you a lift, though, his driving style is terrifying.

Volnay may sound strange source of Nuits but de Montille have acquired some Premier Cru aux Thorey, and by all accounts it is good stuff. The partner picked some up whilst in France. There is also the one vintage only best Nuits Premier Cru made out of Nuits, again aux Thorey but this time from Dujac. Made only in 2005 it is a compelling interpretation of Nuits and a bold and characterful wine for an only attempt.

Finally, of course, there is Gouges. Some of the truly memorable wines of my life have been Gouges. When talking of the consistency of a producer like Gouges you talk over decades rather than a few vintages. They are great wines which, in many vintages, will live forever in your cellar. But then, if you want what is best (and that’s what we care about on Elitist Review), you should be buying more Robert Chevillon.

If I’ve missed anyone out (and obviously no one should be thinking of Grivot here) please add a comment.

  • Tom Blach

    I must say I have to take issue with the idea of the Mugnier Marechale being a good Nuits. To me it tastes like a slightly half-hearted Chambolle. I loved the marvellous, ageworthy, definition southern Nuits version of Faiveley, and will miss it very much.

  • David Strange

    I admit it has been a while since I had anything flash from them, but Faiveley wines have rarely nibbled on my rude bits. I found them to lack a touch of passion. I really should score some and taste a few.

  • David Strange

    The last Mugnier Marechale I had was an 05. I admit to being a tad on the jolly side (jolly as a newt, which is why there was no note posted), but I was presented it blind and guessed it was a Nuits 1er Cru. The lovely Mr ‘Burghound’ Meadows also said it is quite Nuits-y. But certainly I see the Chambolle influence. If you can hang around a bit until the 05 Nuits are up for drinking I’ll arrange a horizonal and we can see what we think of some of these rouge Nuits.

  • Thomas Blach

    That may be some considerable time!
    Interestingly, I have it on the very best authority(ie Claude Kolm)that in general 06 is a more succesful vintage than 05 for Nuits. Though as ever with goos wines, it just depends when you drink them.

  • David Strange

    Two producers we have failed to mention are Mugneret-Gibourg (aka Georges Mugneret) and Confuron-Cotetidot which are both based in Vosne. I’ve had good Nuits Premier Crus from both.

    I’m going to try and get a few more odd bottles of Nuits Premier Cru 05, I see an interesting themed tasting in the future.